TheSnowingSteaks VERY FIRST Showcase

[thesnowingsteak]

Hi I'm TheSnowingsteak and for snowing sakes I'm gonna do my very first showcase.

So for first showcase I'm gonna show my first robots I made on ra2 so don't expect anything competitor worthy besides I don't play this game to be the best stratigic player who win any tournament with my robot with 10'000 spikes I play this for fun.

So without further ado my very first machine Devils Dancer.


Think of him as the 259 of the stock bots as in decent damage, can flip another bot over but doesn't like it when he's on his back.

I'll be gone for a little bit but then I'll be back with the others.

[KOS]

Hi :D, that bot's very good for a first, well done for having little empty space. It can be improved by doing the following:


That bot only needs 1 black battery to power it.
Try to build to the weight limit, for a MW it's 399.
Use shiny hub wheels, as they're lighter.
Try not to use ballasts.
Fire-axes aren't very good, try razors, maces or iron spikes instead. (Irons would be best suited for a VS)
Try to avoid using angle connectors, instead use the side attachment points on extenders.
Also read through this http://beetlebros.gametechmods.com/ra2techs.htm - you will learn a lot from it :D


By doing these, you will have more weight to add weapons/better drive motors.

[thesnowingsteak]

The ballasts are for ballenceing that so it doesn't tip as it turns but I'll get to the rest.

[cephalopod]

Instead of ballast, why don't you use that weight for something useful in the back?

[thesnowingsteak]

Yeah I did I put some spikes also I've changed the disc to happily use iron spikes and included a shrimech.

Also here another three robots.

Darke Ridar


Darke Ridar 3


Darke Ridar 5


And if your wondering Darke ridar 2 is like Darke ridar 3 but six wheeled plu a spinner on the back and Darke ridar 4 was really REALLY bad.

[thesnowingsteak]

Ok I'm out for the night but I'll be back.

[TommyProductionsInc]

Judging from your building style, I would recommend DSL. It's better suited for IRL building, which is what your doing.

[Trovaner]

Actually, Darke Ridar and Darke Ridar 3 don't look IRL.

For Darke Ridar:

• You don't need that many batteries. You only have 2 RAD motors, 1 Snapper for your weapon, and 1 DDT that would only be fired as a srimech.
• With the exception of the 140cm extender, square extenders aren't any better than round extenders.
• In most situations, you'll use either shiny hubs or grannies.
• Try to tighten the chassis around the components that you want to use instead of trying to fill the chassis.
• Try to build to the weight limit. You are actually closer to the weight limit for MW so I'd shoot for that.
• One weapon isn't going to be enough if you are trying to make a competitive bot. Because of the way that RA2 works, the more weapons that make contact with the opponent, the more damage your bot will deliver (this isn't true IRL).

For Darke Ridar 3:

• Unfortunately, servo motors don't work very well for hammers or clamps.
• Though cool, the pole spikes aren't really helping.
• Many of the comments on Darke Ridar are applicable for this bot as well.

For Darke Ridar 5:

• You should try to reduce the number of snappers and increase the number of weapons on each.
• This bot is much better than your other three... However, some of the comments are still applicable. For example, if you built the chassis around the components and didn't use so many batteries than you could reduce the height of your bot and make it invertible with shorter wheels.

The link that KOS_Flow provided is a very good read if you want to be competitive in stock.

[thesnowingsteak]

Actually, Darke Ridar and Darke Ridar 3 don't look IRL.

For Darke Ridar:

• You don't need that many batteries. You only have 2 RAD motors, 1 Snapper for your weapon, and 1 DDT that would only be fired as a srimech.
• With the exception of the 140cm extender, square extenders aren't any better than round extenders.
• In most situations, you'll use either shiny hubs or grannies.
• Try to tighten the chassis around the components that you want to use instead of trying to fill the chassis.
• Try to build to the weight limit. You are actually closer to the weight limit for MW so I'd shoot for that.
• One weapon isn't going to be enough if you are trying to make a competitive bot. Because of the way that RA2 works, the more weapons that make contact with the opponent, the more damage your bot will deliver (this isn't true IRL).

For Darke Ridar 3:

• Unfortunately, servo motors don't work very well for hammers or clamps.
• Though cool, the pole spikes aren't really helping.
• Many of the comments on Darke Ridar are applicable for this bot as well.

For Darke Ridar 5:

• You should try to reduce the number of snappers and increase the number of weapons on each.
• This bot is much better than your other three... However, some of the comments are still applicable. For example, if you built the chassis around the components and didn't use so many batteries than you could reduce the height of your bot and make it invertible with shorter wheels.

The link that KOS_Flow provided is a very good read if you want to be competitive in stock.

I not gonna change the original Darke Ridar because I feel that the other have more potential then him And besides I kind of want him the way he is so I can look at him to see how far I've come.

AS for Darke Ridar 3 I was going to change the servo motor anyways I'm just lazy and those spike are to help it upright.

And DR5 I might just take the advice you give but using it for a couple of issues I have for example I might just make it non invertable, then add a shrimech to replace the batteries and add that weapon suggestion to other parts if I can well either that or I'll use what you taught me for Darke Ridar 6.

This is 455 flippor

[thesnowingsteak]

Oh and one more thing I tend to give as much power on the robots as possible so expect to see bots with one too many batteries.

[cephalopod]

Couple of things I'll point out before someone good at Stock comments...
1) Chassis is far too large. You could shrink the height down and make it invertable with Rubbers.
2) Too much power, as you know
3) The flipper isn't very wedgy, try a small wedge component.
4) You have a lot of weight left, upgrade your Zteks to High Power Zteks, and with the previous suggestions you could probably have 2 DDT flippers.

[martymidget]

You should learn how to stack batteries. Will help you out with smaller chassi.

[KOS]

Craaig has explained most of the things, but also try to:
1) Shrink the chassis height to 5 pixels off the bottom. (minimum height for HPZ's)
2) Use Shiny Hub wheels. (weigh only 12kg)
3) Get damaging weapons on - Flippers are really ineffective on stock, try to convert it to a popup.
4) Try downloading some AI packs when you feel like the stock AI are too easy
5) Listen to advice and you will go far :D

[thesnowingsteak]

Craaig has explained most of the things, but also try to:
1) Shrink the chassis height to 5 pixels off the bottom. (minimum height for HPZ's)
2) Use Shiny Hub wheels. (weigh only 12kg)
3) Get damaging weapons on - Flippers are really ineffective on stock, try to convert it to a popup.
4) Try downloading some AI packs when you feel like the stock AI are too easy
5) Listen to advice and you will go far :D

Tell you what your correct I've the rfs ai pack if that helps.

[El Chickenado]

im surprised to be the first one to point this out but darke ridar is  at that point were some builders would cry as far as weight goes

[thesnowingsteak]

If your taking about the original DR then I'm not gonna bother because I abandoned it when making Darke Ridar 2

[Naryar]

Hi :D, that bot's very good for a first, well done for having little empty space. It can be improved by doing the following:

>very good
> BALLAST AFKFGJGKO

nah it's pretty good for a newbie