Author Topic: Deadmetal showcase (Read 5080 times)

DeadMetal · « **on:** October 29, 2010, 06:43:55 AM »

I thought I'd start up a showcase of my own. I've decided to scrap the way I've been building bots and start with a fresh approach.

I am planning to start a build later today, so before I do I would like to know any 'golden rules' of construction.

For example using skirting, how best to use it, motors, tyres etc.

Is the use of the cheat where two parts occupy the same place common? I don't intend to use it but is it something to look out for?

Vertigo · « **Reply #1 on:** October 29, 2010, 06:53:47 AM »

Its best if you show us a bot & then we can give constructive critism on it.

Quote from: DeadMetal on October 29, 2010, 06:43:55 AM

Is the use of the cheat where two parts occupy the same place common? I don't intend to use it but is it something to look out for?

This is called stacking, it is NOT allowed in DSL, but it is in stock

Naryar · « **Reply #2 on:** October 29, 2010, 07:11:14 AM »

Quote from: Vertigo on October 29, 2010, 06:53:47 AM

Quote from: DeadMetal on October 29, 2010, 06:43:55 AM
Is the use of the cheat where two parts occupy the same place common? I don't intend to use it but is it something to look out for?
This is called stacking, it is NOT allowed in DSL, but it is in stock

It is not allowed in DSL for moving parts/motors/batteries - in fact, not allowed if it could not be implemented IRL.

Overlapping static components is fine however if the bot could be built and work IRL (don't overdo it though)

Vertigo · « **Reply #3 on:** October 29, 2010, 07:12:14 AM »

Like on HNM :P

NFX · « **Reply #4 on:** October 29, 2010, 07:15:45 AM »

Overlapping spikes on the same extender is fine. Overlapping batteries, however, is not. Basically, don't have anything intersecting anything that moves, or anything that's involved with power. Motors, batteries and wheels cannot be intersected, everything else can be partially intersected, I think is the general rule.

DeadMetal · « **Reply #5 on:** October 29, 2010, 07:52:01 AM »

I'm interested to know how you get such a perfect fit. I took Walrus apart a little on the Rookies team, and the components and the chassis fit together perfectly. Is this just trial and error?

Vertigo · « **Reply #6 on:** October 29, 2010, 07:52:46 AM »

That & practice, yes

Scorpion · « **Reply #7 on:** October 29, 2010, 09:02:55 AM »

To start with yes, a lot of trial and error is involved, make the bot, resize the chasis, chasis is still too big, make it smaller, rebuild the bot again, chasis JUST too small etc,etc.
Soon, you'll get better at building tight chasis's with little effort.

And don't worry about posting a bot to begin with, even if you don't think it's that good, I know my first bot sucked for one, it's improving that's the main thing here.

Naryar · « **Reply #8 on:** October 29, 2010, 09:06:29 AM »

Yeah, even if your first bot is bad (or not), we're not going to eat you as long as you don't do something stupid - and you don't strike me as someone that should do something stupid right now.

This is a showcase and a place to learn.

DeadMetal · « **Reply #9 on:** October 29, 2010, 03:45:35 PM »

This is my first DSL bot using new ideas. It is called M1 and is a middleweight bot.

I am relatively pleased with it, I managed to get to an event final (a first on DSL) and won the League in its first season.

The concept of the bot is to get underneath enemy bots and use the two circular saws on most bots weakest point.

To keep the bot at middleweight, the armour is fairly thing, hence it cannot take much punishment. When it gets underneath however, it is very effective.

As you will probably notice fairly swiftly I'm not too bothered about aesthetics.

Any comments welcome.

cephalopod · « **Reply #10 on:** October 29, 2010, 03:48:40 PM »

If I were you, downgrade those battlepacks to Ant Batteries. 1 ant can power 1 spin motor for the entire match. That should save you 30kg or so, which you could upgrade your weapons or drive/wheels with :D not bad as a first bot though!

EDIT: Oh, and get rid of the casters. That'll save you more weight to upgrade with. Maybe use metal hinge wedges instead of skirt hinges?

Badnik96 · « **Reply #11 on:** October 29, 2010, 03:51:21 PM »

Looks cool, maybe you could send that to FOTEPX for his tournament. And do what Craaig says.

DeadMetal · « **Reply #12 on:** October 29, 2010, 03:54:46 PM »

I am currently searching for a counter to low skirting. Is it possible to get under the really low horizontal stuff?

cephalopod · « **Reply #13 on:** October 29, 2010, 03:56:32 PM »

To get under wedges, I believe the best way to put it, would be to have a better wedge. I can't help much there, sorry, I hate the wedge wars and refuse to build wedges. :P

EDIT: But taking my advice and using Metal Hinges instead of Skirt Hinges will help. I know that metal hinges are better, and that's about it.

DeadMetal · « **Reply #14 on:** October 29, 2010, 03:59:38 PM »

I only built a wedge as it seemed the best way to beat spinny do f all else bots :P I for one hate spinners (Absolute Chaos) and refuse to make them

. If every bot was like that robot fighting would be dead in a week. I'm not much of a wedge fan either, I prefer Mortis type robots myself.

NFX · « **Reply #15 on:** October 29, 2010, 04:00:51 PM »

True. But then this is RA2, common sense and reason can go suck a lemon.

There are two ways you can beat wedges, either build a better wedge - the best ones are normally Metal Hinge + DSL Bar/Halfsheet + Small Wedge component - or build a bot specifically designed to beat outwedged, like Craaig's series of VS's.

Another thing, if you use the larger of the two CB's, you save a kilogram of weight. And if the chassis is tall enough, you can put some halfsheets on the underside of your bot to protect it against any bots that might get underneath you.

Scorpion · « **Reply #16 on:** October 29, 2010, 04:01:25 PM »

Yeah wedges are a bee-hatch.
Your probably best off using metal hinges (most consistent for wedges) and using forward weight distribution, although wether weight distribution makes a difference is still kinda debatable.

Quote from: DeadMetal on October 29, 2010, 03:59:38 PM

I only built a wedge as it seemed the best way to beat spinny do f all else bots :P I for one hate spinners (Absolute Chaos) and refuse to make them . If every bot was like that robot fighting would be dead in a week.

You should try making some popups my friend, they are the kings here.

cephalopod · « **Reply #17 on:** October 29, 2010, 04:03:14 PM »

Well, I dislike those unrealistic HS. Or unrealistic bots altogether. I'm a Vertical Spinner person (check mah DSL Showcase

- as NFX said, my designs are meant to beat wedges. In fact, wedges are MEANT to go under them ;p)

But as I mentioned in the edit you may not have seen, try using metal hinges (the ones that look like they're from a door) instead of the skirt hinges (the silver and black things you're using) to get a better wedge.

DeadMetal · « **Reply #18 on:** October 29, 2010, 04:09:56 PM »

Thanks for all the input, keep it comming its all good stuff!

Next up for me I think is a Dead Metal type bot. I don't think I can make it look pretty, but I am obsessed with the idea of having a dirty great circular saw array come out of the body.

Anyone know whats the best way of building a pair of clamping arms? Somethign that will come out from the side and grasp around to the front.

It would probably be a useless bot in terms of winning battles but I wanna make it anyway!

cephalopod · « **Reply #19 on:** October 29, 2010, 04:16:00 PM »

You may wish to see this, made just today and put in the Replica thread

https://gametechmods.com/forums/index.php?topic=797.msg229958#msg229958

But I think you'd need burst motors for the clamping arms, and something to put on them. maybe a dsl bar with something on the end? I don't know. Just remember burst motors don't stick to the 1 ant rule for power, and need a fair few more.