Well, first of all, don't touch the armor options, and then it is stuck on "DSA", which, in stock, is lighter, and stronger, than steel.
Well, first of all, don't touch the armor options, and then it is stuck on "DSA", which, in stock, is lighter, and stronger, than steel.
So not choosing armor gives you better armor?
Wasn't aware of that. Until today I have never built something in Stock before, so I always thought choosing armor was important.
...Unless I've misinterpreted what you've said?
Single sided ice picks, small axes, short pole spikes, and pointy tips are also good if you can work around the normals.Well, first of all, don't touch the armor options, and then it is stuck on "DSA", which, in stock, is lighter, and stronger, than steel.
So not choosing armor gives you better armor?
Wasn't aware of that. Until today I have never built something in Stock before, so I always thought choosing armor was important.
...Unless I've misinterpreted what you've said?
Nope, you've got it right. It's a weird bug in the game. All the Stock AI bots have double-strength armor, too.
As far as the design you're making, I just don't think it's possible to make in Stock effectively. The only good weapons in stock are razors, maces, iron spikes, and sometimes bear claws, and I don't think any of those would fit given what you're trying to do.
Honestly IRL bots aren't really done in stock, it's mainly just unrealistic bots which utilize glitches in the game to make things such as https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/36536screenshot_4.png (http://[url=https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/36536screenshot_4.png)]this[/url] (stolen from Sage's showcase). IRL building is best done in DSL or Ironforge.(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/36536screenshot_4.png)
If you do want to continue with it though, you don't need that many batteries, I'd say 1 nifty(the red battery) would do. And yeah, DSA is double the strength of aluminium and the same weight, you always want to use it.
If you want to try unrealistic building, this is a really good guide: http://beetlebros.gametechmods.com/ra2techs.htm#basic (http://beetlebros.gametechmods.com/ra2techs.htm#basic)
Also, props on making an original skin for it. Not many people do that.
As far as the design you're making, I just don't think it's possible to make in Stock effectively.
To everyone else, it probably spells out; "That's not going to work against anything that isn't the Stock AI." I kinda think the same.Well then go get Starcore V3 so that you can be sure if it works against non-Stock AIs.
HACHIROKU DRIFTU?
You don't need all those angle connectors. Baseplate anchors have multiple angled versions, and you can use control+mouse to move components up and down on the baseplate, allowing you to put the anchors on top of each other.That didn't work for me for whatever reason, but OK. I remember trying that first but the baseplate anchor always came up as the semi-transparent red thingy, making me assume that you had to put it on the baseplate.
You don't need all those angle connectors. Baseplate anchors have multiple angled versions, and you can use control+mouse to move components up and down on the baseplate, allowing you to put the anchors on top of each other.That didn't work for me for whatever reason, but OK. I remember trying that first but the baseplate anchor always came up as the semi-transparent red thingy, making me assume that you had to put it on the baseplate.
Square connectors have the same HP as round ones, and as such are a waste of weight.Unless you use the 140 cm Square extender, which is only 5kg.
I made another robot, but this one is a little different from the others I've made. Protogen and Tempest Atomic Bomb were slight nods to other robots (Barberous and S3, respectively) but now I have made a proper replica of another robot. And personally, I think I did a pretty good job.
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/22099Robot Arena 2 - Tanto Splash Image.jpg)
Wrong weight class, I know, but it's still pretty good visually. It preforms well too (even if the disc lacks range.)
The ram plates are there to protect the motor and to look like the support... beams...? For the disc. Big wheels, high top speed, damaging weapon, and the wedge is a bit bad to be honest. Still fun to use!
And the eyes. Tanto looks a lot better with them. Looks better with the disc too.
I'm not sure if you're supposed to post replicas in regular showcases, but I'm putting this here anyway.
kawaii hachiroku needs to be a robot now.However that's an idea I'm saving for RA3.
from the looks of it, it doesn't really even look liike it needs the wheels outside of the chassis. also, weight?It weighs 391.8 KG. The wheels on the outside thing is because they don't fit inside. And because I saw everyone else do it in the "The Cauldron" tournament. I assumed it was a good idea.
from the looks of it, it doesn't really even look liike it needs the wheels outside of the chassis. also, weight?It weighs 391.8 KG. The wheels on the outside thing is because they don't fit inside. And because I saw everyone else do it in the "The Cauldron" tournament. I assumed it was a good idea.
-Uneven wedges are a no. Mount the Snapper 2 motors perpendicular to the chassis to improve the wedgesI was able to even out the wedges, but that was all I was able to do with the design. I could put the wheels facing inwards, but then I had the "it doesn't move" problem again. I'd rebuild the robot if it's really necessary, but I think I'll go over the weight limit if I do. It's probably worth a shot, anyway.
-There is no reason to have the drive motors hanging out, get them internal to save a little bit of weight
-Try to get HP-Ztek drive, they only add ten more kilos
-Stay away from angle connectors, they waste a ton of weight
This is just before I finish up the rebuild of the robot. I was wanting to ask;Honestly no one really knows how wedges work other than snapper+extender+small wedge with no other components is the best, though even that can fail (see BBEANS 5). My gut tells me that the steepness really shouldn't matter, but what does matter is that if the wedge is upside down like that there is a chance that when pressure is put on it by the chassis, the bottom right vertex touches the ground without the left vertex doing so which would be pretty bad.
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/1703wat do 6.jpg) (I'm not showing the whole thing yet.)
I turned the wedges upside down (180 degrees) so the wedge wouldn't be as steep, and therefore they would be more effective at getting in underneath other robots (theoretically.) Is that right, what I've done there? Is it better to do that or to have them the right way up? Or does it not matter either way?