Maka's Makinations

[RedAce]

Well, you're off to a good start with a lightweight true popup. Couple things though:

1. 5 Razors is a bit overkill, especially for a LW true popup, at least three would work best. This way, the Snapper2s would fire faster and damage better and remove some unnecessary extenders. Could be wrong though.
2. This might not be necessary but you could also use the excess weight with the removed razors, you could expand the chassis to where you could get a black in there. A nifty might not last long enough for two drive motors and two burst motors.


Might not work, but I feel it's worth trying.

[Mr. AS]

Internal Ztek drive is sh** and a waste of weight.

Did you know you can stack baseplate anchors together? If you do something like this:

At the back of your bot, that should save a ton of weight for more important things, like a bigger chassis. Just make sure the back part is long enough so that the ztek doesn't intersect with the chassis.

Wedge war isn't exactly as huge of a deal in LW as it is in MW and HW, your main priority is being able to facetank all the generic HS out there, and bigger chassis = more HP, so you should be focusing on getting a big ol chassis wedge on the front of your bot.

Most you should be putting on a snapper is 3 or 4 razors anyway. 5 just makes your robot worse.

[Badnik96]

Heh, reminds me of Coelophysis. I really should rebuild that thing one of these days, it's outdated as hell.

(and yet it still made top 4 in MO)

[Maka]

bigger chassis = more HP

Well this is new to me.  Bigger in what way?  Surface area?  Volume?  LxW?

[Naryar]

It's mostly a function of weight, heavier chassis = more HP

[Maka]

I tried really hard.
sort-of



I can't remember what font I used for the splashes.  RIP

[Reier]

i dont really know anything about stock but LOOKS GOOD TO ME

im not sure if rubbers and birds are better than zteks and shinies though

[Pwnator]

Actually it DOES have some empty space (around the battery and snapper), although your best solution to that is to make a wedged trapezoid which is more tedious.

And yeah, Z-Tek+shinies combo is the best drive for LW popups, but I'm not sure if your chassis is still shallow enough unless you want to burst the drive or something.

[090901]

You gotta make the chassis BIGGER

[Mr. AS]

Your focus should basically be to make the top set of chassis points smaller and the bottom set larger. Make it as shallow as possible while keeping a decent amount of weapons/drive/battery power.

Reminder that things like batteries and that snapper 2 can fit inside of wedges to a certain extent.

[Maka]

Your focus should basically be to make the top set of chassis points smaller and the bottom set larger. Make it as shallow as possible while keeping a decent amount of weapons/drive/battery power.

Reminder that things like batteries and that snapper 2 can fit inside of wedges to a certain extent.

I was trying to make the lower part as big as I could, but I had to slim it down since it kept coming up over weight.  I tried to arrange all the components (except the control board) so they would all fit under the flat part of the chassis.  The idea was to do that so I could make it as low as possible which would hopefully make the wedge more effective and make it less susceptible to horizontal spinners and rammers.

Of course,  I couldn't get the chassis to the right height so after around ten tries I gave up and decided to finish it anyway.


I'm just gonna trash the current design and start from scratch.

[Maka]

Here's my latest design.  It's not exactly refined and finished, but I'm posting it anyway because I've just about had it with editing the chassis over and over.  It's just tedious trial and error, and I think my time would be better spent doing something like making a bot for BoTM or a tournament.

I'd still like to know what everyone thinks about the overall design.

[09090901]

you should be able to get 3 razors by attaching your razors like this

[090901]

you can save 4-5 kgs(don't remember how much a t extender weighs off the top of my head) by attaching your drive like this:

You'll have the offset the part of the chassis with the BA anchor, but its worth getting the extra weight to make the chassis wider.

[Maka]

Since I have had a lack of ideas recently and I am reluctant to go back to that lightweight popup, I hammered out something quick and simple just to show that I am not dead.

I decided to go about optimizing my cookie-cutter lightweight chassis so I could be stupid and use the extra weight for a comical amount of weapons.  I went about this by removing the chassis-mounted motors and instead putting them on the blue snapper, along with the weapons.  The resulting chassis, with three slim batteries, the control board, and the blue snapper weighed about fifty-two kilos.

From a theoretical standpoint it all sounds very nice, but in reality it is much less practical.  The blue snapper tends to be very touchy and prone to havoking when overloaded.  The robot below actually had several iterations, but I had to keep reconfiguring it to prevent it from just wobbling out of control as soon as it spawned into the test area.  The design also puts too much strain on the batteries.  The spinners only spin at full power when the drive wheels are not moving and it drains power very quickly.  It also has the same problem that "Fire Ant" had with its steering; it can only turn by spinning one wheel at a time.



It is not particularly impressive, but I managed to cram two Ztek tribar spinners on a lightweight so that might be worth something.

Also, yes, I screwed up the splash and am too lazy to fix it.

[Pwnator]

Swap the position of the snapper and CB so you can use shinies instead of minis. Nothing much you can do about the havok bombing unless you want to make the drive unbursted though.

[rnifnuf]

FIRST! Although seeing this has made me want to go back and change mine a bit.

If you switch to using Shinies instead of minis, you will be able to use either HPZteks for the weapon motors or bear claws for weapons.

[Maka]

I do not think I am going to be using that chassis again.  I tried making a number of improvements to the robot, but the blue snapper keeps freaking out and havoking.

Is there anything specifically that makes blue snappers go berserk, or am I just putting too much stuff on it?

[Pwnator]

It usually only havoks when the drive is attached to the snapper. Anything else would probably a hard hit on a bursted weapon motor.

[rnifnuf]

I do not think I am going to be using that chassis again.  I tried making a number of improvements to the robot, but the blue snapper keeps freaking out and havoking.

Is there anything specifically that makes blue snappers go berserk, or am I just putting too much stuff on it?

Strange. Rude Bot (the LW HS that I built) has, as far as I can remember, has never havoked. The main difference between RK 242.01A and Rude Bot is that Rude Bot's chassis is more than large enough to hold the snapper and a nifty with room to spare. That, and Rude Bot has DSA, whereas this (presumably) has plastic. Perhaps Rude Bot's larger and heavier chassis helps with stability, since RA2 (especially Stock) does not like small chassis (see: Nasty Pickle Glitch). Additionally, Rude Bot's Drive and weapons are mounted on a T-Connecter on the back of the snapper. Perhaps switching to attaching everything to the back of the snapper will fix most, if not all, of this RK's havok problems.