gametechmods
Off-Topic => Real Robotics => Real Robotics Discussion => Topic started by: Badger on August 10, 2011, 08:25:49 AM
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Well, I'm making an antweight, and I thought that I'd make a thread to track my prograss and so someone can tell me when I'e gone horribly wrong.
I'm just getting the parts together, today 3 things came, the A3 sheet of lexan, the Battery and the slipper servo:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/79838IMG_0468.JPG)
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/77578IMG_0469.JPG)
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/63217IMG_0473.JPG)
Still need:
2 drive servos (Need to order off haz!)
Transmitter+Reciever (Being shipped)
Battery Charger (Need to find one)
Lexan glue (Being shipped)
Wheels (Need to find!)
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Use motors, not servo's for drive
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What's the difference, after the servos been speedhacked and 360 rotation modded (Horrible choice of words, there)? I heard from somewhere that motors are harder to use and need extra tools ect.
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Servos are slow, you will be driven around in circles by faster robots.
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OK. What motors do you recommend? Could I still use servos?
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Use these motors:
http://www.robotbits.co.uk/motors-gearboxes/50-1-high-power-micro-motor-gearbox/prod_10.html (http://www.robotbits.co.uk/motors-gearboxes/50-1-high-power-micro-motor-gearbox/prod_10.html)
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£13 for 1! I'm fine with slow servos, me, especially as I'm an inexperienced driver. I will probably swap them out when
A) I get the money
B) I get used to driving the damn thing
;)
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I think i'll keep track of this thread, might come in handy if I ever decide to build an antweight.
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That battery looks tiny. 300Mah isn't much charge capacity. Why did you get that? On the bright side it looks like it has a standard Panasonic/At&t connector... so you could charge it in a phone I guess.
Also, I don't now a heck of a lot about antweights... but can the electronics run off 3.6v? That seems odd to me.
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Well, I was recommended 300mAh in this thread: https://gametechmods.com/forums/index.php/topic,7546.0.html (https://gametechmods.com/forums/index.php/topic,7546.0.html)
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Interesting. I didn't think that a battery like that could power a bot for a decent amount of time. I suppose I have as much to learn as you do.
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remember, it only powers 2 servo/motors for drive, and then the odd flip of the flipper, and the reciever. hopefully one of the more expeienced bot builders will shed light on it.
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To give a sense of power draw, my ant, Kobalos, ran 4 matches at the carolina event without needing a recharge on the 11.1v 250mAh pack with 22:1 silver sparks for drive and most matches going the limit.
This is the pack- http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/LP-TP250-3SJPL2.html (http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/LP-TP250-3SJPL2.html)
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That battery looks tiny. 300Mah isn't much charge capacity. Why did you get that? On the bright side it looks like it has a standard Panasonic/At&t connector... so you could charge it in a phone I guess.
Also, I don't now a heck of a lot about antweights... but can the electronics run off 3.6v? That seems odd to me.
Most RC airplane receivers will take a 3-9v input so he's a little on the low side if he has any current spikes that could be a problem.
300Mah is more than enough to run two tiny servos for three minutes. My 30lb flipper only uses ~900mah for 3 minutes of use.
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So I'm fine with the battery I have? plus, with my driving and half the arena walls missing, matches won't last long. ;)
And what is your opinion on the motors/speed/360 rotation hacked servos for drive?
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SPeed hacked servos are not slow, the are insanely fast.
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Thanks Mike and SKBT for your knowledge. I had no idea those batteries could power that much for so long. I guess I overestimate the power draw of Servos (mainly because most of my experience is related to RC cars and such) Great learning thread so far.
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Thanks Mike and SKBT for your knowledge. I had no idea those batteries could power that much for so long. I guess I overestimate the power draw of Servos (mainly because most of my experience is related to RC cars and such) Great learning thread so far.
Yeah, it makes me think of how inefficient my RC car is. It drains it's fairly large LiPo battery in under 10 minutes.
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it takes a lot more power to move around a much heavier machine with a more powerful motor.
Apollyon will drain a 2.3ah pack in ~7min.
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It's pretty light, but I see what you mean. Also, it's 4WD, so it would drain 2x as much as your standard RWD car, I suppose.
Anyways, how would I go about constructing this thing? I was thinking of getting all the parts hooked up and ready, then make as chassis around them, then attach armour panels onto the chassis (All this out of Lexan)
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As for the polycarb you have, literally cut out a template, and you can literally bend it into shape
Make sure either your top or bottom panel is removable
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As for the polycarb you have, literally cut out a template, and you can literally bend it into shape
Make sure either your top or bottom panel is removable
I'm not planning to have a panel under the flipper, I could use that as an access point? And what do you think about using speedhacked servos, or motors?
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As for the polycarb you have, literally cut out a template, and you can literally bend it into shape
Make sure either your top or bottom panel is removable
I'm not planning to have a panel under the flipper, I could use that as an access point? And what do you think about using speedhacked servos, or motors?
Motors
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Hmmm.
I know that servos are pretty user friendly, do motors just clip in to the reciever too?
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Hmmm.
I know that servos are pretty user friendly, do motors just clip in to the reciever too?
Yes
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Could you put a link to a site with these motors with links? I've always had to solder mine in the past :/
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Could you put a link to a site with these motors with links? I've always had to solder mine in the past :/
They don't have links, but they attach straight to most AW Speed Controllers
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Could you put a link to a site with these motors with links? I've always had to solder mine in the past :/
They don't have links, but they attach straight to most AW Speed Controllers
Wait, so the servos just plug in, what do these do? Do you have to solder them on?
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No, a motor needs an ESC for it to work.
I recommend the SaberTooth 5 RC. It uses screw terminals, so minimal soldering is required.
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Sadly, I've already ordered all the parts except the drive servos/motors. The list is in my other thread in the general discussion part of this sub-forum, I CBA to go find it.
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there's no way that an 150g robot will draw more than 1A. The Sabertooth 5 would be a major waste of money and weight for your application. Check out the TinyEsc (http://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-tinyESCv2) it's rated for 1A and commonly used on US ants. P
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Could you put a link to a site with these motors with links? I've always had to solder mine in the past :/
They don't have links, but they attach straight to most AW Speed Controllers
Wait, so the servos just plug in, what do these do? Do you have to solder them on?
A lot use screw terminals, so you will just need to strip the end off the wires
You will most probably need to learn how to solder though. It's easy, don't worry, you should have already been taught soldering at school
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Yeah, it;s just finding where to solder and gathering money for a soldering iron.
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https://gametechmods.com/forums/index.php/topic,4509.255.html (https://gametechmods.com/forums/index.php/topic,4509.255.html) (Last post on page)
Depends whether the motors come with wires attached really, made that without any soldering at all
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servos (speed hacked) are fine for a begginer
of cource motors are better but you said you wouldn't compeate with it
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Nope. Expecting to order them off you this weekend.
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okay talk to me on msn or pm me
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by the way the battery is useless
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Any updates, TRB?
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When I get back off holiday. I've received a few more parts, and the battery is all wrong.
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not all wrong, just the voltage, just get another couple of 300mah cells and solder them on, or get your money back on that little thing
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No, it doesn't connect to the Receiver correctly, It's a tiny 2-pin, the receiver is a 3-pin.
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and its the wrong voltage, add 2 cells and put a new plug on it, simples
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if youre entering it into roaming robots I'll see you there and www.roamingrobots.co.uk (http://www.roamingrobots.co.uk) sell speedhacked servos that are insanely fast but are a bit heavy at 50 grams and have a low battery drain and they sell battery packs with a good charge
my antweight [ which is yet to be named ] runs on only parts from roaming robots with a custom shell me and my friend are building, we expect the shell to take 2 days to build
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you have wasted money my freind :confused:
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Nope, I'm just a lazy arse. Will order the remainder of the parts when I remember not to be on Minecraft/MW2.
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OK, I have forced myself to begin to order the remainder of the bits I need. Though I do need a bit of help:
(http://i42.tinypic.com/2v19bw2.png)(http://i44.tinypic.com/mcx3rb.png)
The first image shows the pins that are compatible with the receiver. The second images shows my current battery's pins. I need a rechargeable battery with the first pin design, plus a recharger. Can you guys help? I have found one, but it's 2000mAh, which seems a little excessive.
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go on componentshop.co.uk and look at small battery packs and choose the futaba connector on whichever battery pack you choose
try this link http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/small_packs.html (http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/small_packs.html) the different connectors are explained on the right side of the page
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Buy one of these (http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0C-CSRCSETF.html). Cut off the old connector and solder or crimp on the new connector.
Going from left to right with the plug right side up, you want Black then Red from your battery. Ignore the 3rd spot, that's for a PWM signal, which doesn't apply to the battery.
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just get a new battery, 2000mah is way to much
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go on componentshop.co.uk and look at small battery packs and choose the futaba connector on whichever battery pack you choose
try this link http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/small_packs.html (http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/small_packs.html) the different connectors are explained on the right side of the page
Are you sure that I need a futaba connector, not a JR or Hitec, they look very similar. And would a 4.8V 400mAh battery pack be fine?
just get a new battery, 2000mah is way to much
I was looking at another site. The battery I have is 300mAh.
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120mah will do you fine
futaba hitec are basicly the same so no worries there
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OK then, I'll order that battery. I guess I'll just have to search up for a charger that'll do futaba connections?
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http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/radio_control1.html (http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/radio_control1.html)
and get a tamiya to futaba adapter
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Thanks for all the help so far, everyone.
Now, I can probably predict the answer to this, but will this (http://www.active-robots.com/motors-wheels/servo-motors/springrc-standard-continuous-rotation-servo.html) do for drive? (*Waits for many people to say no*)
Thing is, I really need my drive motors to just connect into the receiver, and motors require more work and tools (and knowledge) that I just don't have.
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If you want to use servo's for drive I'd recommend these: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/towerpro-mg90s-22kg-torque-ball-raced-micro-servo-p-403863.html (http://www.giantcod.co.uk/towerpro-mg90s-22kg-torque-ball-raced-micro-servo-p-403863.html)
Although motors are still definitely the best option
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i aprove the above post :laughing
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Are they able to do 360 degree continuous rotation (For driving, obviously. =P), or do I have to take them apart myself and change bits whilst watching a tutorial on youtube?
EDIT:
I have been looking at wheels, and have noticed that quite a few have sponge tires. I suppose this isn't strong enough, right?
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Are they able to do 360 degree continuous rotation (For driving, obviously. =P), or do I have to take them apart myself and change bits whilst watching a tutorial on youtube?
You'll have to modify them
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If you want to use servo's for drive I'd recommend these: http://www.giantcod.co.uk/towerpro-mg90s-22kg-torque-ball-raced-micro-servo-p-403863.html (http://www.giantcod.co.uk/towerpro-mg90s-22kg-torque-ball-raced-micro-servo-p-403863.html)
Although motors are still definitely the best option
they are really good servos but you will have to modify them yourself
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OK, I may need some help with that when I get them, hopefully you will have put up with my 'till then. ;)
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its simple as AB3
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Can someone please remind me of the size limit for an antweight? I know the weight limit is 150g.
Edit:
Nvm, it's 4"3.
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Can someone please remind me of the size limit for an antweight? I know the weight limit is 150g.
Edit:
Nvm, it's 4"3.
Actually it can be bigger than 4" in a single direction, it just has to fit in a 4" cube, doesn't have to fit in flat
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Yeah, as long as it can fit in a 4" cube before the fight it's fine.
Although, reading up on some of the rules, I'm afraid some may be difficult to follow:
2h) For safety purposes, all weaponry must have the capability of being deactivated by remote control.
2j) The following radio frequencies are acceptable: 27 MHz, 40 MHz, 418 MHz, 433-434 MHz, 868 MHz and 2.45 GHz. (I have 2.4, not 2.45, is that acceptable?)
5b) Contestants must register their frequencies (including which crystals they have) with the event organiser at least 7 days before the contest. (What, crystals?)
2m) All radio control transmitters must be CE marked and comply with the R&TTE Directive (Not sure if mine is EDIT: It has the CE mark but I'm not sure if it complies with R&TTE.)
Although, apart from that, everything is going OK ATM. Will get the money to order the rest of the parts on Christmas day (hopefully).
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Just like most competitions the FRA hasn't updated their rules to accommodate 2.4ghz. 2.4ghz works by frequency hoping, to find an open frequency so you don't need/have crystals for it. Those rules do not apply.
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OK then, so I don't need to worry about that. However, with the 'deactivating the weapon' part, will just not touching the weapon (Flipper) control count? (Bad wording is bad.)
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Yeah, as long as it can fit in a 4" cube before the fight it's fine.
Although, reading up on some of the rules, I'm afraid some may be difficult to follow:
2h) For safety purposes, all weaponry must have the capability of being deactivated by remote control. Turn on/off via transmitter
2j) The following radio frequencies are acceptable: 27 MHz, 40 MHz, 418 MHz, 433-434 MHz, 868 MHz and 2.45 GHz. (I have 2.4, not 2.45, is that acceptable?) Yes
5b) Contestants must register their frequencies (including which crystals they have) with the event organiser at least 7 days before the contest. (What, crystals?) N/A if your transmitter is 2.4ghz
2m) All radio control transmitters must be CE marked and comply with the R&TTE Directive (Not sure if mine is EDIT: It has the CE mark but I'm not sure if it complies with R&TTE.) Oh well :P
Although, apart from that, everything is going OK ATM. Will get the money to order the rest of the parts on Christmas day (hopefully).
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OK then, so I don't need to worry about that. However, with the 'deactivating the weapon' part, will just not touching the weapon (Flipper) control count? (Bad wording is bad.)
it basically means when you turn your controller off, the weapon ( and drive ) should stop moving completely
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OK then, simple enough. I thought it meant that you needed a killswitch for the weapon. =D
Also, I have some K'Nex wheels I could use, but are they even worth bothering with? I have the dimensions, If that helps.
EDIT:
Also, as the drive will be bound to one analouge stick (And the flipper to the other), I would need a Y-lead like this (http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/85196/), wouldn't I?
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No you don't. You plug one ESC into aileron and the other into elevator and enable V-tail mixing on the remote.
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I don't think my remote has a button for V-tail mixing, but I guess I'll just have to see if it works.
I was thinking of ordering another pair of these (http://www.giantcod.co.uk/towerpro-sg90-micro-servo-p-268.html) (same as my weapon servo) as I read somewhere that they were good for rotation modding (what is the correct term for that, anyway? =S). Is this a good or bad idea?
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they arnet the best for drive, use the ones that vertigo linked you to, scrap that for the flipper aswell, get a hitec or supertec one
they will work though, i use them
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Ok, so I picked up the battery and recharger today, meaning I could test my servo. Works fine. =D
Although the battery recharger seems to hate my battery. When I attempted to recharge it it flicked the discharge light on for a second then gave up. Maybe because it only has 300 or 600 mAh settings, and The battery is 400?
Will order that drive servos soon, when I decide what I want to get.
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is the charger set to the right voltage?
what charger is it?