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Messages - 123savethewhales
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521
« on: May 17, 2013, 03:52:48 AM »
More empty space. I mean you are already such a huge target with open chassis, might as well go all the way and have a 10x10 chassis slope.
522
« on: May 16, 2013, 01:57:32 PM »
Well he's not n00dle, but he does contribute his share of trouble making.
523
« on: May 16, 2013, 12:42:31 AM »
Fun Fact: Most of us on GTM are normal, then we have a few outcasts who are not autistic.
524
« on: May 09, 2013, 03:06:47 AM »
Try using mechavore disc with that.
525
« on: May 09, 2013, 02:38:07 AM »
Have the claws come out sidways instead of forward and back, that will provide it with the stability it needs. Also you can probably get a cheaper setup by not actually using those teeth, and armor can be lower to plastic 3 if needed. Possibly something like this  Their arms really should angle outward like that anyway. You probably don't need the extenders coming down and across the wheel either with those giant angle plates, so you can put those flipper segments back on it's back. Also pole spike may be replaced by DS Light if you need more weight, and DS Light is a much better weapon than pole spikes anyway even in DSL 3 (2 side and point normal against just the tip).
526
« on: May 08, 2013, 01:17:05 AM »
DSL3? I suggest lowing your drive changing the wheels to hypno. They have the same speed anyway.
You can then use the rest of the weight to protect the wheels with claw like armors.
527
« on: May 03, 2013, 04:17:02 PM »
I want to rebuild Warlus
528
« on: May 02, 2013, 04:04:19 PM »
why dont you just work with Click to make the components balanced?
Egos, and vastly different point of views.
529
« on: May 01, 2013, 12:57:42 AM »
"SaveTheWhales" was actually an inside joke about land whales. After all I do live in the USA. It's funny because people assume I am some animal loving liberal because of that name.
530
« on: April 30, 2013, 03:55:03 AM »
Well, you can do this in a few ways
1. A raised base anchor type component. Round titanium extender tells me this is DSL2 which probably means ME. You can either just raise the ME through BFE (easy) or lower the chassis after putting in the ME (slightly harder).
2. Invisible components, which include custom components and smart zone. I don't really know why you can connect stuff to some of those smart zones but yeah.
531
« on: April 29, 2013, 10:31:59 PM »
You could of skipped the extender by just moving the piston forward, and/or by using a longer piston.
532
« on: April 29, 2013, 05:23:17 AM »
I was always for 1:2 over the 1:1.839. But really with the kinna damage a bot can deal now, landing about 4-5 good hits should be enough to knock out a 200kg chassis at 120hp/kg.
533
« on: April 29, 2013, 04:17:49 AM »
I say double chassis armor effectiveness from 60hp/kg to 120hp/kg. I mean without the halfsheet/caster you don't want gutrippers to trololo ohko everything.
534
« on: April 28, 2013, 03:31:12 AM »
I am beginning to suspect that the "grip bonus %" stacks additively with battery penalty, so when Tread reach half battery, it more or less stops moving completely.
Personally I think all wheels, even treads, should at least have 1 grip. Comparing DSL3 to DSL2 and Stock
DSL 3 NPC + Hypno == (32*1.2)torque/(40+10.5)kg == 0.76 torque/kg
DSL 2 NPCF + Techno == (48*2.3)torque/(40+32)kg == 1.53 torque/kg
Stock HP-Ztek + Rubber == 48 torque/(30+13)kg ==1.12 torque/kg
I think DSL3 wheel grip has room for improvement.
535
« on: April 27, 2013, 07:11:44 PM »
i want to know how #1 got those back extenders rotated that way
By using the side connection point.
536
« on: April 27, 2013, 11:24:24 AM »
I think the plates are fine as is. No reason for them to have Male connection points when you already have DSL Disc.
What I really like to see is length consistency. The old DSL components use 0.24 for 20cm, while the new DSL Extenders/plate uses 0.2, so they are significantly shorter than skirts/dsl bars of the same length.
537
« on: April 25, 2013, 11:57:51 AM »
I'm not a big fan of it just because the chassis is the starting point of every bot. It is my opinion that it is best to start with nothing than try to make something unique out of a chassis that has already been over used.
There used to be a contest which required participants to build a bot using a provided chassis but many of the entries looked similar because the chassis was better suited for certain arrangements. This made it more difficult to be original especially in the lower weight classes.
I could add a section to the bot exchange for it but it would make cheating easier (for example, a DSL chassis in stock) and harder to spot (for example, hosts wouldn't be able to use the chassis as a fingerprint for identifying cheaters).
Pretty sure you won't be able to fit any stock parts into your typical DSL Chassis. I mean, what kind of epic fail DSL chassis can fit those ginormous black batteries and blue bursts? Besides, if you really want to cheat like that, you can just port your stock bot into DSL and change the chassis armor.
538
« on: April 25, 2013, 11:51:53 AM »
For me, this is a design oriented game, so I will use every tool at my disposal to make the building process easier.
Probably why I am mostly a DSL builder where the actual building process is quite easy. I don't have hours and hours of free time to put together a design I have in my head.
539
« on: April 25, 2013, 02:16:15 AM »
I actually have various "battery box" chassis for Stock and DSL2. But I find that in heavier weight class, most bots require specialized chassis anyway.
Besides anyone can download an AI pack and steal a chassis if they really needed to, so I don't really see any harm in having them in BotExchange.
540
« on: April 25, 2013, 02:05:28 AM »
Use saws 1 sizes larger on the 2 end if possible. Weapons touching the ground do not deal damage.
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