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Messages - min440303
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41
« on: June 15, 2020, 11:16:42 PM »
Go for some RW Reboot finalists Apollo Ironside 3
42
« on: June 12, 2020, 07:24:24 AM »
Arcturus looks sweet, but I suggest bending the saw arm the other way so the arm doesn't get in the saw's way
Oh thx! This could definitely be a problem, nice suggestion!
43
« on: June 11, 2020, 09:01:49 PM »
If Sawblaze and Scorpios have a child Arcturus Edit: Took Superbomb's suggestion and changed the bending direction of the weapon arm (also made the saw bigger)
44
« on: June 09, 2020, 09:48:04 PM »
45
« on: June 05, 2020, 11:50:42 AM »
I thought that eteks were prone to overheating too easy. But then i was running them at 48v (although iirc they can easily take 48v)
But shouldn't your headbanging verts survive less time?
I am using brushless motors for verts, and unlike brushed they can take higher voltages easily afaik
The brushless motors have current limits. This keeps them a lot cooler, but you have to gear them down to keep spinup time short.
Kix, what voltage/gear ratio are you using for brushless?
Ngl gearings don't affect spinup time that much on brushless. On the contrary I think brushless should be geared up to have more tip speed due to its insane cooling ability yet eteks should be geared down to keep away from overheating.
46
« on: June 05, 2020, 09:06:35 AM »
I thought that eteks were prone to overheating too easy. But then i was running them at 48v (although iirc they can easily take 48v)
But shouldn't your headbanging verts survive less time?
47
« on: June 05, 2020, 08:36:15 AM »
1. Overheating is completely avoidable if you are willing to play it safe with battery voltage. The AmpFlows can run all day at the 24 volts for which they are rated. Maybe we need to include rated voltage in the motor description so people have an idea of what a "safe" voltage is?
I think we need this. On the other side, driving motors are not a problem with overheating (at least not for me now). The problem is always with spinner motors like etek or pancake etek. My pancake etek for disc spinners run at 40 volts and 2200 rpm but still overheat within 1 minute fight. 2. Over the next few weeks I am going to take what we have learned about damage in previous builds and rewriting damage from scratch. Is your fear that self damage has been too much of a factor in previous builds?
Ya we think the self-damage in previous builds was already a bit too high, and now we also have overheating, so yea, it should be lower.
48
« on: June 05, 2020, 07:04:20 AM »
Something I'm curious about: As we already have overheating for bots to disable their own motors, would self-damage be as high as before or maybe just get removed and replaced by overheating?
49
« on: June 04, 2020, 07:45:33 AM »
Unfortunately, no.
Boolean subtraction is crazy hard to do for arbitrary shapes. It would be awesome to have it though! :)
What about making the part invisible to look like it's removed? I think it might be the same way as how hollow cylinders are made?
The problem with boolean subtraction is that at some point you need to make a new mesh composed of many more triangles than the number of triangles in the original meshes.
The photo below shows an extremely simple example. The 6-sided cube starts with 12 triangles. When you slice it with a plane, the resulting 7-sided shape now has 23 triangles. This gets MUCH worse for more complex shapes like cylinders:
(Image removed from quote.)
Yea I kinda know that. I mean what if we make the part that's overlaps by the remove plate and steel plate invisible, the collision is still there but it just looks like it's removed.
50
« on: June 04, 2020, 07:21:19 AM »
Unfortunately, no.
Boolean subtraction is crazy hard to do for arbitrary shapes. It would be awesome to have it though! :)
What about making the part invisible to look like it's removed? I guess it might be the same way as how hollow cylinders are made?
51
« on: June 04, 2020, 04:14:24 AM »
Uh oh. That looks like a highlighter selection bug. I'm assuming you are clicking on the turquoise cylinder, but a scale has been applied to it and the highlighter is not scaling correctly.
Removable plate material should work like this:
1. Click on a mesh and select the "Remove Plate" material instead of "Steel".
2. In the botlab the mesh should become invisible.
3. When you go to the test cage, the mesh is invisible and its collider is removed.
Oh it was my comprehension problem. There actually is a smaller cylinder with remove plate placing through the huge cyinder. I thought it was like placing a remove plate into a steel plate, then I can remove a part of the steel plate like digging a hole in it. Would this be a thing in the future?
52
« on: June 04, 2020, 12:09:26 AM »
I still have no idea how remove plates work
53
« on: June 03, 2020, 11:25:59 AM »
My laptop gets a bit laggy when doing full-screen recording but it's ok, so yea here's the video.
And if you want bots shown in the vid
54
« on: June 03, 2020, 10:18:52 AM »
There's a thing I've noticed is the fight is even easier to get crashed.
Drat. Can you show me how to replicate it?
ehhh I don't know how to describe, it just happens randomly. I'll try to record some examples
55
« on: June 03, 2020, 09:52:36 AM »
There's a thing I've noticed is the fight is even easier to get crashed.
56
« on: June 01, 2020, 09:12:42 PM »
Getting copyright strike - Infraraptor
57
« on: May 30, 2020, 08:57:42 AM »
Somewhere in the range of 8:1 to 12:1.
I think I'm okay with slower driving. I'm old. :)
Also, I didn't mention it before, but temperatures will be higher in this build. I increased the room temperature to 40 degrees. I simultaneously increased the temperature limit of the windings to 155. You should have a lot more room before your windings overheat.
Ya it should be. As spinner bites became a thing, everytime a spinner hits the floor the temp gets much higher. Especially for verts, sometimes a vert has to hit the floor over 5 times to self-right, although those are small bites, the temp goes up pretty fast. Not sure if it's a thing but I'll just post it here.
95 degrees is 60 degrees away from the limit. That is pretty typical for most motors nowadays. It should be fine, unless you are seeing smoke...
Ya I mean, in a 3 minutes fight, this happens all the time. Mostly about 1 minute past there will be smokes everywhere and spinners stop. Or...maybe spinner vs spinner just should be like this.
58
« on: May 30, 2020, 06:59:53 AM »
Somewhere in the range of 8:1 to 12:1.
I think I'm okay with slower driving. I'm old. :)
Also, I didn't mention it before, but temperatures will be higher in this build. I increased the room temperature to 40 degrees. I simultaneously increased the temperature limit of the windings to 155. You should have a lot more room before your windings overheat.
Ya it should be. As spinner bites became a thing, everytime a spinner hits the floor the temp gets much higher. Especially for verts, sometimes a vert has to hit the floor over 5 times to self-right, although those are small bites, the temp goes up pretty fast. Not sure if it's a thing but I'll just post it here.
59
« on: May 30, 2020, 06:39:13 AM »
I just tried Aftershock. The 10S you are using is pretty high for drive. According to the Robot Wars wiki Aftershock uses 6S for drive. I wouldn't be surprised if you had overheating problems.
I swapped out the 10S for 6S, and it drives okay. I tried messing with the gear ratio a bit, and I'm mostly happy with it.
I'm also really curious to see how it drives using analog sticks on a game controller rather than a keyboard.
How much did you gear it to?
60
« on: May 29, 2020, 11:33:07 PM »
The hits are even better than before which is brilliant.
And it's always me coming up with some weird stuff in the bunch of new builds.
Idk if it's only me that's having the problem. For 2WD bots (not only verts, all bots with only two wheels in the back), all of them are fast as hell in the new build, and I can't gear the motors to slow them down because of the overheating. if I use batteries with lower volts, the speed is lower, but the driving is a bit awkward, and the bot keeps lifting its front which means the bot should be faster but something's stuck on the floor to prevent it from moving faster like the driving issues I've mentioned before.
Then it comes the situation like: The best gearing I've made is like the first vid below, Aftershock drives really fine when the temp rises up to 70~80, but before that the bot just overdrives madly.
High Volts with low gearing
Low volts with high gearing
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