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Messages - Phoenyx
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41
« on: September 13, 2012, 06:27:30 PM »
By any chance is the IRL middleweight?
42
« on: September 13, 2012, 03:14:29 PM »
Unprotected polycarb extender looks delicious on that VS. I'm a sucker for a 70KG hammer though.
As for the trinity SnS, two things to get it to spaz-out.
1. Is it spinning fast enough?
2. Is it firing its lazor pistons?
43
« on: September 13, 2012, 12:20:02 PM »
Anyhoo, here's my alternative go to IRL MW if Hadron 2 gets dull...
(Image removed from quote.)
2 Judge bursts, NPC's, 7 ants, steel 1. There were going to be decals, but for some ridiculous reason I can never do anything to change aesthetics on this damn game right xD
Looks nice, but how well do the lifters get under stuff? I've never had much luck with flipper segments alone, and I usually end up using small wedges on the tips of custom flippers.
44
« on: September 13, 2012, 02:50:06 AM »
I know it's a lot like Sewer Snake
So because it has wedges....it looks like Sewer Snake?
lol seriously who gave you the roboteer title
It's because it's a double-flipper, like Sewer Snake. The front lifter moves opponents onto the front-hinged flipper/Srimech on top. If anything, it's a lot like Sewer Snake combined with Panic Attack. As for "Who gave me the roboteer title", it's easier to get it than you'd think. You just take a picture of your robot(s), either complete or WIP, and post an application in the Real Robot Builders thread. I'm surprised so many members who have their own robots haven't already done so. This is the Great Pumpkin, built by the same team that made Last Rites. Take it as an example, all it consists of is pretty much what you have, a pair of wheel chair motors, a solid construction, and filled with high quality parts. No active weapon, no exotic materials, I doesn't even have wheel guards. The only thing of note about it is the fact that it runs off of A123 batteries.
Here's my last bit of advise, if you are still going to build a heavy, use whatever is left of your budget to invest in armor and batteries, especially the last one. A good set of NiCads, or even better, A123 batteries, will give your bot the amps it needs. I'm not sure if your running your bot on 24 volts or 36, or even 12, but I strongly urge you to invest on good quality batteries. They will last you several builds if properly maintained, saving you money in the long run. Use a quality charger, like the AstroFlight 112 Deluxe(Or the AstroFlight 123, you'll need a balancer though!) and a good power supply like this one, and again, they will last you a long time if properly cared for.
That's my two bits. You've already gone farther than most members here, and I really hope that you can make it to ComBots this year.
I'm not too thrilled on Ni-Cads (out-of-date in my opinion) or A123 cells (Lower voltage per cell means more cells thus more weight and more greenbacks), but I may go with four of these. I've had tons of experience with Li-Po batteries and already have probably one of the highest-end chargers on the market. As for the power supply, that's exactly what I have already. Armour-wise, I'll have to settle for what I've already got until I can save up, but hopefully I'll have the money to get some actual armour instead of the aluminum treadplate I bought at Lowes before Combots. For now, though, I at least have something to protect the frame while just messing around and practicing. Thanks for the encouragement. I'll be looking forward to ComBots.
45
« on: September 12, 2012, 10:19:12 AM »
I'm surprised how everyone ignored my last post and decided to reply to the one before it...
46
« on: September 12, 2012, 08:12:25 AM »
I may go ahead and do this. I'll have to sort them out first though and there's some designs I've been experimenting with that aren't that effective but have interesting abilities in-game.
47
« on: September 12, 2012, 08:09:59 AM »
I decided to try out the multi-piston glitch in DSL. It's a little harder to do so than in stock but I was able to pull it off.
Here we have four of the same havok bomb in the Combat Arena.
Insanity ensues.
48
« on: September 12, 2012, 06:47:31 AM »
what were trying to get across to you is that you somehow can afford an etek
Except I can't. I'm considering one but I would have to save up. My budget for this project (not my idea to set it this low) is just a bit over $1,500, and the fact that I got the thing moving (and at around 15 MPH at that) for half that cost is a miracle. As for what I would build if my extremely low budget was not an issue:  I know it's a lot like Sewer Snake, but because of that it's a proven design, and I decided to toss a little Storm 2 into the mix with the low ground clearance. If only I had $10,000 or so to spend on a project... Meh, I'm going collage by this winter, so maybe my friends among the UNCA professors could help me with the project. Until then, it's wheelchair scrap-bot Battlewagon getting brutally murdered by Last Rites (if it makes it that far). Plus, I've learned more about electrical engineering from what I've already built than I have from 6 years of racing RC cars (at a national level, I might add), not to mention I finally learned to solder properly.
49
« on: September 12, 2012, 12:02:10 AM »
and yet you can afford a friggin etek
Except I can't. Hypnodisc started in the third wars, and ran a Lynch motor.
and the lynch is a pretty badass motor....
I know the stuff can't stand up to a spinner (Hypnodisc could slice through it in Series 2), but again I'm not Team Whyachi so I will have to make do with what I can get for the time being.
Dude that is a terrible build philosophy. A thrown together from scrap robot will preform like a thrown together from scrap robot...
I think it would be better for you to forgo your ego and stop building a 220 until you get more experience. Realistically you've never been to a competition, you don't have any money to build it correctly and assuming you are planing to take it to combots and robogames you have no money to ship it there. (It will cost you about three grand to ship everything: tools, robot, spare parts there and back.)
You seriously need to attend a competition before you go out and build a robot. Youtube videos don't do the destruction and forces involved justice. Its also a chance to talk to builders and see their bots and how they are built. I've never seen a good robot from a rookie whose never been to a competition and I've been competing for a few years now.
Instead of building a 220 maybe you should consider building a 30 and attending an event with it before you invest a crap ton of money in a 220. Also it doesn't hurt that there are more events for 30s on the east coast.
Have any of you who are actually commenting here even built a heavyweight before, or are you just trying to force me out because I'm not building the next Sewer Snake or Original Sin? I'm not building to destroy everyone in 30 Seconds or anything, I'm building this because I enjoy the challenge and just want to have fun. As for building a smaller robot, you guys have been shooting down every single one of my ideas so far. So let me ask this... Does every single robot that you see have to be the best, most destructive thing you've ever seen? I'm happy that I got the !@#$ thing to move at a decent speed to begin with using the tools I have on hand. This isn't RA2, and I don't have an unlimited budget. If I did I wouldn't be building the thing out of a wheelchair do begin with. 
50
« on: September 11, 2012, 06:08:35 PM »
Well I for one completely support the idea of getting an Etek. I always think it's better to get the better parts than to buy cheap ones and then later decide that you need to upgrade. Just make sure you mount it securely with a lot of protection as you wouldn't want it getting damaged.
However, those kits do not look suited to robot combat at all. You'd end up needing to build a completely new robot. On the most part, kits are not the best choices, as they tend to be made to be cheap and to introduce new roboteers than to be competitive.
Alright, although until I can get the money for that E-Tek Mars and a brushless controller that can handle the current load I'm going to be running Battlewagon as a Wedge/Ram By the way, I finally got some armour. Aluminum Tread Plate. I know the stuff can't stand up to a spinner (Hypnodisc could slice through it in Series 2), but again I'm not Team Whyachi so I will have to make do with what I can get for the time being.
51
« on: September 11, 2012, 02:02:46 PM »
You would end up spending over 400 dollars what could be done better for 250.
Would it be worth it if I got the version without electronics?
Still no.
Those motors are slow, and kinda cost a bit. Even the one with the lowest gearing only produces about 200 rpm, and cost 21.95 US dollars each. For the same price, four Harbor Freight 900 RPM drills will give you a tried and true drive motor, and a decent battery and charger. I'll leave other costs to other members because I went crabbing yesterday and my hands hurt.
Well, I do already have a handful of Titan 550s from Traxxas, as well as multiple hard-case Li-Po batteries of various capacities and C ratings. I'm sure I could put those to use unless the chassis is too small.
52
« on: September 11, 2012, 12:03:37 PM »
You would end up spending over 400 dollars what could be done better for 250.
Would it be worth it if I got the version without electronics?
53
« on: September 11, 2012, 11:29:04 AM »
First one I watched was Sewer Snake vs Raging Scotsman. It looks like people use flamethrowers to get around the active weapon requirement, if it's still enforced.
Or is that a sportsman class rule?
Sportsman class rule
The Mechanics
The robot chassis is made from heavy-duty anodized aluminum structural brackets and ultra-tough laser-cut Lexan panels. It includes four 12.0vdc 30:1 gear head motors and our 4.75" tires and wheels.
Speed's still a little slow (4 MPH), but I could upgrade that. I mainly want to know if it would be better to buy materials separately rather than using a Lynxmotion rover kit.
Where I read it was PVC. I still wouldn't buy it. It's mystery aluminumTM and lexan of unknown thickness and weighs "n". Most of the parts such as the motors, hubs, and esc would need to be replaced anyways.
I can attest to the killability of a Sabertooth. I've killed a 2x12 in a 3lb robot with serious shock mounting. Stuff just kinda pops off the board.
Probably a typo. The main product page is the best thing to look at, rather than the smaller ordering page. Also, I've built Lynxmotion kits before (a BRAT 6DOF Biped, specifically) and at least for a biped the aluminum brackets hold up well. As for the Lexan, it's quarter-inch. The kit weighs 4.6 lbs altogether, so it would probably be a Hobbyweight. I just want to know if it would cost me more to custom-build rather than just modify the chassis, and whether it would be worth the savings.
54
« on: September 11, 2012, 07:31:10 AM »
Looks like I'm up against Plasmic Inferno. Well, bot matchup-wise it's better than Ty4er...
55
« on: September 11, 2012, 01:43:17 AM »
Asheville
Specifically Skyland.
Really specifically Biltmore Park Oak Brook section.
REALLY Really specifically "The place were unusual stuff goes on in Biltmore Park" (I made that last one up, since I'm the reason for that)
56
« on: September 11, 2012, 12:56:03 AM »
And here: http://www.youtube.com/mattmaxsr
watch some videos there.
First one I watched was Sewer Snake vs Raging Scotsman. It looks like people use flamethrowers to get around the active weapon requirement, if it's still enforced. Or is that a sportsman class rule? MikeNCR also has a bunch of videos of east coast events http://www.youtube.com/user/mikencr/
http://www.lynxmotion.com/c-110-rc-combo-kit.aspx
Just curious, but would this be any good for a starting platform for a smaller robot? Of course it wouldn't be an insect class, but maybe a hobbyweight?
Nope, not at all. It's PVC so you'd end up replacing pretty much everything with steel or UHMW anyways. That and it runs a sabertooth and sabertooths tend to randomly die...
The motors it comes with are really slow and underpowered for a combat robot. 250 rpm with 4.75" wheels is going to be slow.
Final drive axle rpm x wheel diameter / 336= MPH
so...
253 X 4.75 /366 = 3.2 mph
That's really really slow. My 30 is geared for about 10 mph and it is a little above average in terms of speed. If I had to guess I'd say average top speed for a 12 or 30 lb robot is 6-8 mph.
with 4" wheels you want to look for a final output around 550-900rpm
I have a feeling that you didn't read the page... The Mechanics
The robot chassis is made from heavy-duty anodized aluminum structural brackets and ultra-tough laser-cut Lexan panels. It includes four 12.0vdc 30:1 gear head motors and our 4.75" tires and wheels. Speed's still a little slow (4 MPH), but I could upgrade that. I mainly want to know if it would be better to buy materials separately rather than using a Lynxmotion rover kit.
58
« on: September 10, 2012, 02:29:45 AM »
Yeah, I hate the fact that the human race has developed the technology that allows people from around the world to stay connected with each other in an organized fashon. We need to go back to the 1800's and use telegrams to communicate, that would make so much more sense.
Except we wouldn't need to do that. We're not using facebook to talk now, are we? But I digress... Forget facebook. 
Now can we move on? This isn't a topic about facebook.
59
« on: September 09, 2012, 11:55:19 PM »
Then have fun missing out on a chance to get connected with fellow builders and event organizers.
Which is why I hate Facebook even more. People use it at the expense of all other forms of communication, and all it's really doing is making one guy rich off of people's personal information. But forget facebook.
60
« on: September 09, 2012, 11:49:39 PM »
uhh
Yeah if you actually plan on building a combat robot you should actually figure out how to get connected with people. it's really not that hard at all.
http://www.facebook.com/groups/RoboCommunity/
Something you might want to know about me: I hate facebook, and I hate the fact that you really cant do much online anymore without it even more. For reference, this is the top ranked bot in the US.
Didn't that thing compete in Battlebots 5.0? Botrank.com has an active list of the robots which have competed in the last year or so.
Thanks. That will really help.
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