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Messages - rnifnuf
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241
« on: March 07, 2014, 05:38:22 PM »
The first thing that you should know about DSL building is that it is very different from Stock building. Everything has to be possible in real life, though not everything has to be realistic. This is where the two kinds of DSL building--IRL and DSL-S--differ. DSL Standard is more like Stock building, where the main goal is to make the bot as effective as possible. IRL building is where you try to build the best-looking or most realistic bot. You don't have to choose now, and you could become one of few people that do both. That would be cool.
As for ideas, try remaking some of your older Stock bots in DSL or look at other DSL showcases for inspiration. I have a DSL showcase, as does pretty much every other active builder that isn't Mechadino (he only does Stock).
Also I think that the walker bot is cool.
242
« on: March 06, 2014, 05:40:18 PM »
Death grip looks nice, but you really don't need the weapons on the back. Most AI scripts have the bot meeting the other bot head-on, so these rear weapons are of little use. Also, put some kind of front shielding on the bot. This could either be snowplows or ramming weapons, like the ones on the back. As I said before, hammer bots have weapons that attack from the side, so they need some kind of frontal protection.
243
« on: March 05, 2014, 03:23:45 PM »
I'm sorry, but watching Off The Rails flying off like that is just too funny. I can imagine it saying "Team Rocket's blasting Off The Rails again!"
244
« on: March 05, 2014, 03:19:51 PM »
How well does the mega plow work for a lifting device?
They don't work too well as lifting devices. But seriously, making this a flipper would end up being a waste of weight, hence why I suggest you use a SnapperII instead of a DDT. If you can, you could also try to add one more razor to each hammer arm, assuming you use a 20cm extender in place of the angle extender, although don't worry if you really don't have the weight..
245
« on: March 05, 2014, 12:56:53 AM »
Also, replace the ramplates with snowplows, adding more extenders to spread them apart if necessary. This provides for a wider defense for less weight. You may need to rotate the extenders so that the snowplows face forwards. Ideally, you want a setup like this...  ...where the black extenders represent 60cm extenders, the red one is 40cm, and the square ones are 20cm (note: do not use square extenders that aren't 140cm long; they have the same HP as round extenders for more weight, except for the 140cm ones, which weigh 5kg). Both ramplates and snowplows have 1000HP and varying sizes, making them equally applicable in their own ways. In this case, snowplows are preferred thanks to their width. This will take up more weight if you use it, but it will help protect from those meddling horizontal spinners. For the wedges, you could either use the blue SnaperII's or use a Snapper2 (the blue snappers weigh 13kg, while the Snapper2's weigh 22kg); a DDT is best suited for a weapon, not a wedge. as for replacing the angle extenders with regular extenders, remember that each small interval in which components are rotated is equal to 10 degrees, so to rotate something 90 degrees, rotate it nine of these intervals, often called "clicks". I can see this bot coming together quite nicely. It is already improving, and quickly, too. Then, once you get good, you could learn to AI and enter tournaments. Keep up the good work, Tommy!
246
« on: March 04, 2014, 10:25:17 PM »
Is there a mounting system you can use with a snapper and not an anchor? I fail to see much difference...
Badnik: With a snapper, you can snapper load and/or eFFe the components on the extender. Although this is probably unnecessary, since the components can be attached in the manner that they are without either of these techniques. Tommy: With the weight saved from replacing the snapper with an anchor, you could replace the sideways razors with irons. This isn't something I normally would advise, but since irons are much larger than razors, the irons would reach past the ice picks. Additionally/alternitavely, you could replace the supervolt with a nifty, since a nifty is more than enough to power that bot for three minutes. This method gives you the opportunity to learn how to stack control boards inside of Nifties, which is a very popular trick in the Stock community.
247
« on: March 04, 2014, 08:21:04 PM »
Also, for O-Bladerator, use four smaller ice picks as opposed to two larger ones. Both sizes of ice picks have 1000HP and 157DP (Damage potential, a relative measure on how much damage this weapon could do. In Stock, this ranges from 100 to 183.9, but the range is much wider in DSL 2 and 3, 150 to 425 and 125 to 1019 respectively), but singe picks have half of the weight of a double pick. Alternatively, you could use irons, razors, maces, axe heads*, or bear claws*.
As for rusty, you could prevent it getting stuck on its side by placing the Z-teks farther apart from each other. The wheels might do the spike strips' job as well as their own. This could also give you a place to put the supervolt.
*Axe heads and bear claws have normals, which are areas the weapon can do damage with. For example, sawblades can only do damage with the edge and will do nothing with the flat face. For axe heads and bear claws, these normals are the axe blade and the tips of the claws respectively.
248
« on: March 04, 2014, 01:18:50 AM »
I like where you are going with Rusty, but it could use some major adjustments. These include: - The wedge is not that great. Use a small wedge on an extender on a blue snapper. This will save lots of weight for stronger weapon burst motors and more hammer weapons.
- Use a snowplow for frontal armor. This is crucial for hammers, as their weapons fly in from the sides as opposed to the front. No frontal weapon means that there is nothing to protect the chassis.
- Use a stronger burst motor for the hammer weapon. This will allow for more weapons on the hammer and allow it to function as a proper srimech. As it is, the separate srimech is just a waste of weight.
- Eliminate the RAD motors and wheels and only have two-wheel drive with HP Z-Teks. This saves weight as well as battery power for the burst motor. Keep the shiny hubs, though
- What armor are you using? Stock only has two viable armor options: Plastic and Double-strength aluminum (DSA). DSA is attained by not selecting any armor, thus providing you with a light armor that is stronger than steel. Only use plastic if there is absolutely no weight leftover for DSA. If you selected an armor besides DSA, this will ruin the glitch. The only way to re-apply DSA is to re-build the chassis.
- You only need a single supervolt for this bot. The extra pink is barely helping if at all, so you might as well remove it.
Also, don't post multiple smileys in a row. It makes you look like a n00b, which, based on your replicas, you certainly are not.
249
« on: March 02, 2014, 07:03:35 PM »
Cutting Wedge, I am proud of you not-son.
250
« on: February 21, 2014, 10:49:10 PM »
So I wanted to make servos not completely useless, then this happened. Consider it an experimental bot.  Armor is DSA. This is Sir Jack-of-Alltrades, a VS/HS/Rammer hybrid thing. It changes its weapon by way of a 702 Servo motor which the horizontal disc is attached to. I have actually had this idea for a while, but never got around to following through until now. It has grannies to help the VS component stay off of the ground. And yes, this is the same exact chassis used by both Compaq RAM AND Buzzsaw, who is up for renaming. ADVANTAGES: +The Jack of all Trades DISADVANTAGES: -Master of none. Thoughts?
251
« on: February 16, 2014, 07:12:59 PM »
I was thinking that you could replace "Weightless" with "Giga Heavyweight", since a GHW weighs over 5000kg.
252
« on: February 15, 2014, 05:09:45 PM »
I see that you are taking a shot at DSL building. The first thing that you should know about DSL building is that it is nothing like Stock building. The two games have two completely different building standards. In DSL, the bot has to be physically possible, although not always realistic. I immediately see some glaring problems with your bot. You're new, so it's alright as long as these things get fixed. The issues I found were: - In DSL, burst motor wedges aren't that great. There are two components under the extenders tab called the "Skirt Hinge" and "Metal Hinge", which were designed for wedges. Replace the JX bursts with metal hinges with either titanium skirts or small wedges. This will also fix the problem with the MOE blades intersecting the burst motors.
- MOE blades aren't the best of weapons. Instead, use solid 100cm discs (the dark grey octagons) with either razor tips, beater bars or sledgehammers (except for the 25kg ones, they suck).
- Get rid of the spike strips. They are rather pointless in this situation.
- Generally, multi-extenders are more desirable than baseplate anchors. ME's are lighter, smaller, and can partially occlude the chassis.
- For spinners, use one ant battery per spin motor. Much like in Stock, all spin motors drain the same amount of power and can be fully powered by one ant battery (the small orange ones). Contrary to the pink batteries from Stock, which are useless past the Lightweight class, ants are the battery used in spinners, rammers, and, on occasion, popups. In this case, you need three or four ants.
- The drive is fine as it is, but if you really want to upgrade it, use the left/right NPC motors with Hypnodisc wheels.
What armor are you using and are the NPC-T64's normal or fast? Also, name your DSL showcase something different from your Stock showcase to avoid confusion (and possibly delay). Even "Drake Garage DSL" is acceptable. Finally, read the tutorials and showcases from more experienced members. GTM Moderator Naryar has an excellent insight on DSL building. Do these things, and you will be great, I'm sure of it.
253
« on: February 14, 2014, 12:54:12 PM »
I'm going to an event in Yakima in a few hours. Consider this my final bot before succumbing to exposure to eastern Washington.  Armor is Titanium 5. Those are NPC fasts. The skirts attached to the metal hinges are aluminum. The half-life of Tellurium-128 is more than 2x10 24 years. This is IWB, which is short for "Invertible Wammer? BLASPHEMY!". This bot is...exactly what it sounds like. I can't say much more. ADVANTAGES: +Really really really really fast +Destructive +Wedgy +Invertible DISADVANTAGES: -Very likely to pull a Rage. Thoughts?
254
« on: February 14, 2014, 12:25:44 PM »
Much better. However, there are still some glaring issues (important terms in bold): - The armor is Steel. Steel armor is horrendous in Stock, as it is both heavier and weaker than Double-Strength Aluminum, or DSA. DSA is one of the easiest glitches to perform in RA2; all you have to do is completely skip the armor tab after making the chassis. However, since you already selected an armor, the only way to get DSA is to remake the chassis. You know you have DSA armor if you paint the whole chassis black and it doesn't gleam upon rotating it.
- You used the wrong attachment point for the tribars. Attachment points are the small green cylinders that indicate where the selected component will be attached. To select a different attachment point, simply click on the one that you desire. In this case, you want the one that makes the arms of the tribar point downwards.
- Attach a single 20cm extender to the tribar, then add two maces to each extender. If you need to, rotate the extenders. You have to hold down the shift key and moving the mouse left or right. Each interval in which the component is 10 degrees, so to rotate it 90 degrees, you need to rotate it 9 of these intervals in the desired direction.
Keep up the good work, and stay good.
255
« on: February 13, 2014, 05:37:50 PM »
I know that you're trying to improve, but you actually worsened the bot. Here are some ways you could improve the bot: - You have far too many batteries. All spin motors (motors with a spinning axle) use the same amount of power, in spite of what the description says. A pink (small battery pack) will fully power exactly one spin motor for three minutes, a Nifty will power four spin motors, and a Supervolt will power eight.
- The drive was worsened. All wheels have 1000 hit points, so the lighter wheels are better than the larger ones. Use the shiny hub wheels with the high-power Z-teks. If you really need to, use Grannies (slipperbottoms).
- Lawnmower blades aren't very good weapons. Use maces/iron spikes/razor tips on tribars. All weapons have 1000 hit points, except for razor tips, which have a measly 500.
- Use multiple Z-tek weapon motors with the aforementioned weapon setup (Zteks with tribars with weapons). Also, mount the Z-teks on 90-degree baseplate anchors, with the axles pointing upwards.
- Try to minimize chassis space.
Most importantly: read the tutorials and lurk in the showcases. Lurking is the act of studying the showcases of experienced builders, while not posting in the showcases. Trust me, this is a good idea, and it will help you become a better builder. Also, what is the armor?
256
« on: February 12, 2014, 12:05:50 AM »
I like how eager you are to learn. However, I would really work on improving building skills first. While your bot isn't the worst first bot I've ever seen, some things really need to change. Your biggest priorities are to make the bot invertible (able to drive upside-down) and to shrink the chassis size. Making the bot invertible would eliminate the need for a self-righting mechanism, or a srimech, leaving weight for more weapons. Shrinking the size of the chassis would leave more weight leftover for more weapons. As for your weapon choice, you're doing it right; maces are excellent weapons in Stock, alongside razor tips, iron spikes, and bear claws*. If you really want to learn, then check out the showcases of other, more experienced members. Two really good Stock showcases that you could potentially learn a lot from are the showcases of Sage and Mr.AwesumSauce as well as Mechadino. You could also look at some building tutorials, the most famous being the one from the GTM admin Clickbeetle, which is found here. Other than that, welcome to Gametechmods! Stay for the ride, do something cool, don't be "that guy", and you will gain the respect of your peers.
257
« on: February 11, 2014, 11:46:28 AM »
I got a 2-hour late start for school today. This is how I used that time:  Armor is Plastic 1. There are three ants and nothing is attached to the farthest shell panel. Avocados are poisonous to parrots. Guys I did it. I made an antweight shell spinner. Probably not the first, but I made one. It doesn't have a name, though. ADVANTAGES: +The sheer fact that its an antweight shell spinner. DISADVANTAGES: -Everything else (poor armor, only two weapons, crappy steering, etc.) Thoughts?
258
« on: February 10, 2014, 11:49:11 AM »
What size of VDMA R/P Piston is that? The larger it is, the more amps it requires to stay powerful. Based on the bot's size, I'm pretty sure that two PC-545's (the big orange ones) will fully power it for three minutes. Create a larger chassis that can hold two oranges/PC-545's.
I'm not trying to imply that more amps means more power. Once the bot's amperage requirements are fulfilled, the game stops caring about amps and looks at electoral. Electoral is the stat that affects battery life, and in DSL3, burst-based bots need large batteries with loads of electoral. In DSL2, most heavyweight hammers and popups could get away with using 11-15 ants depending on the choice of burst motor, but that changed in DSL3, when Clickbeetle balanced out everything. Now, for example, instead of 15 ants, it is generally more wise to use 2 PC-545's and 1 long black battery (longs were buffed in DSL3) thanks to higher electoral.
259
« on: February 07, 2014, 01:09:13 AM »
It finally snowed in my area for the first time in about two years. I got a sudden early release from school and I tomorrow is a snow day. This song pretty much outlines my reaction to the ordeal:
260
« on: February 06, 2014, 07:13:18 PM »
Also, don't do what I did and be too boastful about your first bot, which might suck, but that is common out of new members. Trust me, it is not a good thing.
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