It's original for sure. Those connectors aren't really the best though. Multiextenders are best for stuff like that
LW: don't use NPC for the weapon. In DSL, there are two kinds of motors, drive motors and weapon motors, weapon motors include: Eteks/Perms/twmr's (With the exception of the drive vesions)/ Piglets and shtuff. Drive motors are: NPC's/Twmr's (Drive versions)/ Etek (drive)/flatmotor (or slimbody forgot the name) and the astroflight. You should use a double twmr, might be overkill. Could use a twmr or a piglet instead.HW Flipper: The random ramplates look weird. If it's standard, I think you got it right, if it's IRL the skirts pass through the chassis, the ramplates should be better organized, and I think that's it.Crawler: i don't even know i have no idea how to build crawlers or how they work
If the flipper is standard, do away with the top ramplate and you're going to need wedges at the front. The bot is underpowered as well- not sure exactly how much more you'll need (forgotten- nary pls).
When it comes to spinning motors, you only need one ant battery to run one spin motor for a standard 2 minute match (might even be 3). This'll save you some weight for other things.Metal hinge wedges are often better than skirt hinges and burst wedges (nobody uses them anymore, but a well tuned one can be deadly). All in all, it's a good start for improving. Consider using the outer attachment points for discs in the future as well. A good weapon set up for this would be light ds teeth/razors attached to beater bars. You could also find a way to make it invertible. However, feel free to do what you want, really.Honestly it's better for you to just experiment with stuff. If you need a hand we'll point you in the right direction- and feel free to showcase it.Happy building!
I can't seem to use metal hinges, they break the second I attach them (the non-anchored part always flies off).