gametechmods
Robot Arena => Discussion => Topic started by: nightcracker on May 31, 2011, 09:35:46 AM
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I tried Sloading a DDT for my popup, but firing the DDT made the snapper spin too, rapidly. In fact, it threw my ~400 kilo bot to the surface of the test chamber.
Is it possible to Sload a DDT, or any other tricks to squeeze our <3 DDT's?
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to the surface of the test chamber.
You made it sound like you're building a portal gun lolololololololol
Let us see the setup. Either for some reason it's havok-prone or the game just downright hates you. D:
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I had already deleted the setup, but here you go (quickly reassembled it):
(http://i53.tinypic.com/op6wkz.png)
Edit:
To clarify, only one snapper is used, the other is dummy ATM. The DDT is connect to the snapper, the extender with randomly placed razors on the DDT.
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Ah. Snapper IIs tend to be excitable (really excitable, actually), when very few components are attached to one side (and one side only). Attach your drive to the secret attachment points of the snappers and the glitchiness will be gone.
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Ah. Snapper IIs tend to be excitable (really excitable, actually), when very few components are attached to one side (and one side only). Attach your drive to the secret attachment points of the snappers and the glitchiness will be gone.
Thanks, now I can continue super-compacting my popup :D I was inspired by NFX's bot, but I can't figure out how he placed one DDT (or two, one each side):
(http://i52.tinypic.com/9ibebd.png)
EDIT: WOW, that is the nicest arrow I've EVER drawn.
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The first pair of DDTs are on the baseplate and the second pair came off the secret APs of the Snapper IIs via 20cms (do this pair first before the pair on the baseplate).
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Pwn has it. First DDT was attached to the secret AP via a 20cm extender during Snapper Loading, then the second one was attached directly to the baseplate. Snapper Loading does get you some AGOD if you try to use lots of stuff, though, so you might have to be wary of that. I got a lot of that when I built Halestorm 7, especially on the wheels.
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You made it sound like you're building a portal gun lolololololololol
Will there be cake?
General rule of thumb keep moving bursts (weapons, etc) static to avoid.. err.. undesired effects
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Pwn has it. First DDT was attached to the secret AP via a 20cm extender during Snapper Loading, then the second one was attached directly to the baseplate. Snapper Loading does get you some AGOD if you try to use lots of stuff, though, so you might have to be wary of that. I got a lot of that when I built Halestorm 7, especially on the wheels.
Hah!
It's quite a complicated sequence of axle loading and snapper loading, but I got it. The only thing that I still need to figure out is the order to get the ramplate inside the DDT, but then I can start building (given that my chassis is right now).
Is this chassis about right (DDT with razor added for reference)?
(http://i52.tinypic.com/vhzsau.png)
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It looks about right. You could try to put the baseplate DDT's, SnapperII's and Blacks in, just to see if it all does fit. You can remove the DDT's to SLoad the SnapperII's, then put them back in once the stuff's out of the way.
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It looks about right. You could try to put the baseplate DDT's, SnapperII's and Blacks in, just to see if it all does fit. You can remove the DDT's to SLoad the SnapperII's, then put them back in once the stuff's out of the way.
I already know, I've been working on this chassis for 2 days now :) EVERY pixel is perfect. The thing I'm mostly worried about is the slope of the front, is it too low/too high?
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It looks alright to me. You just need to make sure you've got enough weight for all the components.
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Ahhh I see what you mean. Try this: Instead of first attached the DDT to the snapperII, attach a RAD motor (reverse angle drive). Sload that, and then remove and replace the DDT instead.
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Ahhh I see what you mean. Try this: Instead of first attached the DDT to the snapperII, attach a RAD motor (reverse angle drive). Sload that, and then remove and replace the DDT instead.
I think you misunderstood me. I sloaded the DDT perfectly fine (using a RAD), but the SnapII is just very spinny if there is no counterweight on the "hidden" attachpoint as said above.
Completely offtopic: Sage, I tried to add you on MSN, did you get my request?
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Ahhh I see what you mean. Try this: Instead of first attached the DDT to the snapperII, attach a RAD motor (reverse angle drive). Sload that, and then remove and replace the DDT instead.
I think you misunderstood me. I sloaded the DDT perfectly fine (using a RAD), but the SnapII is just very spinny if there is no counterweight on the "hidden" attachpoint as said above.
Completely offtopic: Sage, I tried to add you on MSN, did you get my request?
Oh, I see what you mean.
Also, I never use MSN. I'm pretty much solely AIM now (cause both my MSN and Yahoo got filled with spam). Sorry, I forgot to take my name down on this website.
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Another question to NFX, how did you do the ramplates? I tried putting them on the Snapper II's, and they fit perfectly, but I can't get the ramplates right AND get the drivetrain in the right angle while I also must do various glitches with moving the snapper. I put the drivetrain on the "secret" attachment point at the back of the Snapper II and tried the ramplates at the "normal" attachment point of the Snapper II.
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Do this:
Snapper II secret AP -> 20cm holding a DDT at the end -> 20cm off the previous extender on the AP closest to the snapper -> another 20cm with the furthest sideways AP holding a 40cm (I think) and the ramplate -> 20cm with the drive
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No no, I said it wrong, I meant the two ram plates up front :)
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I thought you already attached them directly to the snapper arms?
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It's hard to explain.
First I attach an extender to the real attachment point of the Snapper II. On that extender I put the ramplate. Now I must rotate the Snapper II until the ramplate is perfect.
Next I attach the drivetrain and Sloaded DDT through an extender on the "secret" attachment point of the Snapper II. All of this must be positioned correctly by rotating the extender. This works fine.
But when I garage and back the extender "rotates back" into the "normal" (non-rotated) position which causes either the drivetrain or the ramplate to be completely out-of-place.
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Ah. A frequent mistake I committed when I was building uber-HSes way back then. Make sure when your snapper's loaded, the extender's already facing the rear (relative to the baseplate). Rotating the extender relative to the ramplate messes things up.
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Perhaps you could post an image to further clarify because I don't really understand it (it's very hard to explain this kind of stuff :)).
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It's basically no matter what way you rotate the visible arm of the SnapperII, the secret attachment point will ALWAYS face the same direction once you go into the Test Lab and back out. It's better to mount the drivetrain and such on the secret AP, I think, because it's far easier to get the correct angle.
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Ahh that explains a lot. So no matter what I rotate the Snapper II to the secret attachment point always resets to horizontal - relative to the baseplate?
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Exactly. Or whatever way you had the extender pointing when you attached it.