Author Topic: Team FarSide  (Read 33614 times)

Offline Phoenyx

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #60 on: July 12, 2012, 11:08:07 PM »
At the moment it's a third of what I spent on mine new. Go for it.
  :SFTW

Offline R1885

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #61 on: July 26, 2012, 06:40:48 PM »

Offline MikeNCR

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #62 on: July 26, 2012, 06:53:37 PM »
Hey, is this a good drill to cannibalize?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RYOBI-18v-1-2-CORDLESS-DRILL-P204-18-volt-v-/310224371789?pt=Drills&hash=item483ad0404d

Haven't seen anyone using them as robot motors, so there may not be any ready to go mount options, but I use those drills for actual drilling purposes and they seem to be pretty tough/powerful.

Offline SKBT

Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #63 on: July 26, 2012, 06:56:28 PM »
no. its a two speed. two speeds are a pain in the ass to work with because of the gearbox construction. everything is held together with the drill casing. the harbor freight 900rpm drill is actually cheaper, comes with a battery/charger and have a proven record in both the 12 and 30 weight classes. I also have an instructable on how to hack them.

Offline R1885

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #64 on: July 26, 2012, 07:12:32 PM »
How well do they take over volting? My application is a power full hobbyweight push bot, like the Brazilian robot Puminha.
Looks like this.

Offline SKBT

Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #65 on: July 26, 2012, 07:27:31 PM »
anything above 5s kinda melts the brushes...

[(motor output rpm*wheel dia) / 366] = speed of robot in mph

[(900*4) /366] = 10mph

that's plenty fast for a 12 pushy bot. The 12 "Tough Nut" was running 4 hf drills with 3" wheels and was "fast" compared to most other 12's.

Offline R1885

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #66 on: September 12, 2012, 06:22:59 PM »
Ok, time for an update:
Short Stop is almost done, all I need to do for it is get a better battery and bit of nut strip. For ComBots, I was thinking of building a Beetle. So I have some quick questions:
How well do the B62 motors take 22.2 volts? Some other beetles seem to handle it fine. I'm going to be using these wheels. Sound good?
Also, anyone else use Zippy lipos? I was thinking of using a pair of three cell lipos and wiring them for 22.2 volts.

Offline SKBT

Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #67 on: September 12, 2012, 06:30:36 PM »
Kitbots 1000rpm motors are basically the same thing as a B16. They don't like anything above 4s so I'd think it would be safe to assume that the B62 wouldn't be happy at that voltage either.

Any reason for using a B62 and over volting it? If its for drive 4 of theKitbots 1000rpm motors at 3s can push around 12 lbs.


I have a couple of 3s 1000mah zippys and they work fine in my 3.

Offline R1885

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #68 on: September 12, 2012, 06:49:02 PM »
I want over volted B62's because I want acceleration. B16's and 1000RPM gear motors put out plenty of speed, but I want to cover more ground very quickly. Plus, the Kitbot motors with hardening and deans connectors cost 28 dollars, so I figured that I might as well go with the slightly more torquey and better built B62.

Offline SKBT

Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #69 on: September 12, 2012, 07:34:25 PM »
You don't need the battle hardening. All it is is they loctite the gearbox together. It's not that hard to do. All you need is loctite and a pack of chinadeans. Kitbots even has instructions on their site. Yeah I know its for the OMFGBB 24 mm boxes but its basically the same process. The 1000rpm motors are pretty durable. I've only lost one and that was against Bushwacker. The all kitbots kits, Ripto, and Cohesion all run them and they rarely have failures.

Offline R1885

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #70 on: September 12, 2012, 07:49:35 PM »
I've heard really bad things about fake deans connectors. I would REALLY want stay away from those. Plus, I want acceleration like a bullet, rather than a car.

Offline Phoenyx

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #71 on: September 13, 2012, 09:26:28 PM »
I've heard really bad things about fake deans connectors. I would REALLY want stay away from those. Plus, I want acceleration like a bullet, rather than a car.

In that case, use Traxxas connectors just to be sure, although they can be a bit of a pain to wire initially. Deans are great, but their only advantage over the Traxxas connectors is their slightly lower weight, which in this case shouldn't effect anything. They both have the same internal resistance and the Traxxas connectors can take more abuse (Deans are made with the same plastic as Molex connectors but thicker, while Traxxas connectors are made with a carbon composite plastic).
  :SFTW

Offline R1885

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #72 on: January 30, 2013, 08:25:44 PM »
Ok, update time.
Short Stop about 85% done, I need to wire the battery, fix some electrical problems, and make a wedge plate.
Here's the most recent photo I have of the bot currently:

Current weight is about 14 ounces.


...yes, my ant has a big ass ni-cad, don't judge me.

Offline MikeNCR

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #73 on: January 30, 2013, 08:39:11 PM »
A few quick things-


The AR600x, as far as I know, doesn't failsafe correctly. Luckily rx's that do are cheap.


I use this one in my ants: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11972__OrangeRx_R410_Spektrum_DSM2_Compatible_4Ch_2_4Ghz_Receiver.html


This should work if you need 6 channels: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31224__OrangeRx_R620_Spektrum_JR_DSM2_Compatible_Full_Range_6Ch_2_4Ghz_Receiver_w_Failsafe.html


If you need to save space/weight, you could switch to mini-deans or jst connectors: http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-CAJSTX.html or http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0C-DMICRO.html


Eventually swapping to a lipo would be good, but at least for now you'll have plenty of run time.

Offline SKBT

Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #74 on: January 30, 2013, 09:02:52 PM »
why use connectors? it takes like 5 seconds to solder 22 gauge wire onto a small motor like that.

your big ass nicad is way too big and heavy. you should use 9v's like the kit specified or use a 3s lipo.

you need to remove weight because 2oz of anything isn't going to make that last in competition.

why not use the a 3s 450mah lipo, cut off the front of the frame just forward of the motors and make a legit wedge?

Offline R1885

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #75 on: February 06, 2013, 07:08:00 PM »
To make a long story short, I got 30 bucks to use, and I have a simple question:
Does this charge this correctly?

Offline SKBT

Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #76 on: February 06, 2013, 08:21:23 PM »
i don't know. i love the turnigy nano tech batteries but i don't own a hobbyking charger.

i'd sell or return your receiver and buy one of these


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=28554

 to get you around $40-50

Offline R1885

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #77 on: November 26, 2013, 08:16:57 PM »

Something is happening.
Current plans are to invest in a lipo battery, fashion the armor from garolite using the plastic template, and to invest in a steel or titanium wedge. Secondary plans are to get bigger wheels, get 33:1 or 22:1 silver sparks when they restock them, and to make a new frame from UHMW plastic.
« Last Edit: November 26, 2013, 11:22:28 PM by R1885 »

Offline Badnik96

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #78 on: November 26, 2013, 10:31:07 PM »
Looking nice so far. I'd swap out the 9 volts using the mod that Fingertech has on their site so you can get a lipo on it. Certainly helped Slim Pickens.

Offline R1885

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Re: Team FarSide
« Reply #79 on: December 04, 2013, 07:34:28 PM »
Cardboard template is basically done, will post latter tonight.
Also, should I go for 4-40 nut strip or 6-32 nut strip? Also, Lexan or Garolite?