gametechmods
Off-Topic => Real Robotics => Real Robotics Discussion => Topic started by: Somebody on March 31, 2012, 09:40:00 PM
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Well I present on April 11th, so I figure its about time to start.
I am planning to CAD a 30 lb robot for my senior project. Doesn't have to be super beautiful and doesn't have to be amazingly accurate, because I'm pretty much the only kid who knows a damn thing about robots in my school AFAIK, and there is only gonna be a few people at the presentation anyways.
My plan is a 30lb robot with an eggbeater weapon. Haven't decided much after that, but thats not too important. I need to basically know what parts are the best to use in this, and a place I can get a sheet metal quote and the eggbeater weapon.
FYI, the project is to make a CAD Robot and to do some stuff about combat robotics in general, probably editing together a video of some bots (hence my earlier thread on the subject). I will be using Autodesk Inventor 2012 Student Edition (is free), which I am somewhat familiar with already.
Thanks
~Somebody
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Come on and really build a robot...
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I caaannnn't
No money no time. It will most likely be built someday, just not now. Or I'll go to WPI and get to play with Professor Chaos instead. They wait-listed me but there is still a chance.
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I caaannnn't
No money no time. It will most likely be built someday, just not now. Or I'll go to WPI and get to play with Professor Chaos instead. They wait-listed me but there is still a chance.
uhh I'll convince one of my friends to go Drexel instead of WPI... that should free up a space for you.
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Don't tell me that there is a limited space for the club... pleease you'll crush my dreams lol
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eggbeaters are awesome
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Due to my laziness I have just decided I'm going to do something simpler with no active weapons. Just need motor ideas now probably.
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Dewalt power drive kits.
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I was bored and made a beater (https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/42461Beater_SKBT.png). If you want to use it feel free to ]download (https://gametechmods.com/uploads/files/Beater_SLDWORKS_SKBT.rar) it
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Would you happen to know the amp draw of the dewalt motors? I need it to choose batteries and speed controllers.
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With four inch wheels, a Dewalt power drive on "high" speed and at 24 volts would draw 23.5 amps, and 47 amps peak, and have a five minute Ah requirement of 2.742.
If locked in "Low" speed, the power requirements would be even less, having only about 16 amps peak.
In that case, the Victor 883 is a good option, and a simple team NightMare NiCad pack at 3 Ah would work wonders.
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Now would the amp draw change at all if the motors were set on low power?
Edit: didn't notice the part in your post answering my question, thanks
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a simple team NightMare NiCad pack at 3 Ah would work wonders.
who still used NICad these days...
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8582__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_6S1P_20C_.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8582__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_6S1P_20C_.html)
http://holmeshobbies.com/product.php?productid=274&cat=2&page=1 (http://holmeshobbies.com/product.php?productid=274&cat=2&page=1)
Basically Nyx's drive setup. Mike ran these in all 3 of his bots at moto. The esc's handled enough amps to desolder the motor leads on Nyx.
Also if you are budgeting parts as part of your project both of these things are cheaper.
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NiCads can suffer more abuse that LiPos, and don't burst into flame when mistreated. I like NiCads more.
And to answer your question, Gary Gin's Original Sin uses NiCads.
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while true, NiCad's are much heavier for the same power. I used a 6 cell 2650mah Turnigy Nano-Tech pack in Nyx and it worked great. As long as you don't short it and protect it well, you'll save a ton of weight vs. NiCads.
Also, the Nano-Tech's are cheap. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20756__Turnigy_nano_tech_2650mah_6S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack_USA_Warehouse_.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20756__Turnigy_nano_tech_2650mah_6S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack_USA_Warehouse_.html)
Also, on Nyx, I used 4" wheels in high gear with a slight chain reduction (15t on drive, 19t on wheel, 1.267:1 ratio) making it perform closer to a 3" wheel (drive speed would match a 3.16" diameter wheel directly mounted to the dewalt shaft)
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I am planning a 4wd bot, because looking cool and POWERRRRR will probably help me more in the project than a real effectiveness.
I forget where you wrote it mike I think it was in the instructable for Nyx that you said that the two drive motors drew about 1300 mAh. I figured with 4 I would need 2600 and then a bit of breathing room so I chose a 3300.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17261__Turnigy_nano_tech_3300mah_6S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17261__Turnigy_nano_tech_3300mah_6S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html)
Same brand but I just wanted to verify.
Also, what does 45-90C stand for?
Edit: And also, what does 6S stand for?
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6s is 6 cell, so 22.2v
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This should be really handy for pulling numbers-
http://www.killerbotics.com/kbtools/TentacleTools/ (http://www.killerbotics.com/kbtools/TentacleTools/)
(drive train calculator)
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Team Run Amok has a more up-to date version.
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Every other part is modeled, and I was about to do the OrangeRx Receiver. I noticed that the listing for it mentioned nothing about a failsafe. Shouldn't it have one?
Edit: And does it need a receiver battery? I don't see one in Nyx.
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When it looses signal it defaults to the position the transmitter's stick were at when Rx/Transmitter were bound. So as long as your sticks are "zeroed" it will failsafe correctly.
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wheather or not it needs a rx battery depends on what escs you are using and if they have a BEC or not
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The Speed controllers have a BEC, so that's all set and thanks for all your help everybody.
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Oh my god.
Oh my god.
Oh my god.
Oh my god.
Oh my god.
Oh my god.
Oh my god.
I had it in the proposal and everything to build to Robogames rules, and they aren't running a 30lb class this year according to their website. 6WD LW Time?
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60lb multibot... Or go NERC...