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Messages - PixelCrunchRA2
21
« on: July 18, 2016, 06:54:11 AM »
I know that! But sometimes I forget about DSA, and I remember when it's too late. Also, I got the BBEANS A.I pack.
Try and get into the habit of always using DSA when playing in stock. It is the best armour and should always be used as it is also the lightest (feasible option). The only exception is (rarely) using plastic on the low weight classes (Lightweight and below) as it is even lighter than DSA and the low weight limit is more restrictive, but even then, DSA should still be used where you can.
How are you faring against the BBeans pack? Starcore v4 is also a good mix.
I'm doing well, but the HWs are hard with other HWs! It's the DSL version FYI.
22
« on: July 18, 2016, 06:46:18 AM »
so uh do you like need help or
Nope! I am just excited that I finally get to fight bots from DSL BBEANS! 
23
« on: July 17, 2016, 03:06:42 PM »
Guys! I got the BBEANS DSL A.I Mod! Now I can improve my skills and try to beat the BBEANS bots! But it's super hard! 
24
« on: July 17, 2016, 03:05:06 PM »
Really Jonzu? After all the times I defended you.
You never defended me.
I'll Defend you, Jonzu.
25
« on: July 16, 2016, 07:53:13 AM »
hes 84 he thinks he's hip though
How can you tell he's 84, Reier?
26
« on: July 16, 2016, 07:04:12 AM »
Pixel, in case you are in fact NOT aware of DSA, it stands for double strength aluminium.
Statistically it is the same weight as regular aluminium but strength wise, it is stronger than steel.
It's a sort of hidden part, to apply it, once you have drawn your chassis and adjusted it's height, click accept or whatever.
Then you should be on the armour/draw chassis tab, DO NOT CLICK ARMOUR. DSA is applied to your bot as standard, just build your bot as normal and never click the armour button and your bot will have DSA.
I know that! But sometimes I forget about DSA, and I remember when it's too late. Also, I got the BBEANS A.I pack.
27
« on: July 15, 2016, 02:55:06 PM »
needs more drive. at least 3WD HPZ drive for a MW SNS, but you're gonna need a radial design, something built in a circular fashion, instead of a standard box design.
your chassis shape is at the moment random: keep it simple.
Sledgehammers are literally the worst weapon in stock. use maces, irons, razors, or bear claws. ice picks and the lighter axe blades are also usable.
Also don't spam the tiny batteries in stock. They are pretty bad too. The only time you need those is in antweights/beetleweights, and occasionally when you have a bit of space and weight, you can cram one in a heavier weightclass.
Use the Supervolts if you can. You can use a Nifty if you stay 2WD but since you're gonna go 3WD on a MW SnS, stick to a single supervolt.
Also I'd recommend going for a flail SnS (Sit aNd Spinner) approach. Use a vertical pointing free axle to make flails, and then put some racks of weapons on that flail.
My chassis is supposed to look like a bow-tie, and I do not have room for supervolts or nifties. Also, why are sledgehammers bad? And if I use titanium, it will be a HW, and then UnderWeight!
28
« on: July 15, 2016, 07:09:44 AM »
it's nice to see you again reier, anyways.
yeah good to see you too man
hard to believe 6 years passed since i joined i feel so old
just 13 when i first came here hahaha
btw i move that we change nary's title to 'grandpa of gtm'
no that belongs to Ounce and/or Urjak
Why not CB/Toast? They're celebrating a decade at this site.
Urjak is 80 years old bro.
Is Urjak REALLY 80?...Shield, Reier, and TRB, I want you to ask Urjak...is he REALLY 80...or is he 12-24? Make sure to get the info I want!
29
« on: July 15, 2016, 07:05:56 AM »
(Image removed from quote.)
A VS/Piston Rammer ain't got sh'it on a HS.
My sides felt like they were exploding when I saw this while laughing.
30
« on: July 15, 2016, 07:00:36 AM »
31
« on: July 15, 2016, 06:23:46 AM »
Yup, In the span of an hour or two, I managed to build this little guy.
(Image removed from quote.)
Under side:
(Image removed from quote.)
Built with four tools, a Buck Knife, a screw driver, a clamp, and my hands.
At this time being, it's not done yet, I need electronics and a radio.
Current progress was cutting the the base plate, mounting the motor, drilling some holes(Had to use my Buck knife, yuck  ), mounting the skid, and mounting the wheels. Not very professional, but it should work, once I get some electronics to get it to work.
Not sure what to call it, I was thinking of Anti-OxidANT, but it's a place holder so far.
What do you guys think of my shady job?
What is that chassis? Some sort of foam leftover box from a restaurant lid and bottom or something glued/screwed together? Please tell me!  Also, I noticed that your avatar kind of looks like an LBX from that 3DS LBX game, R1885.
32
« on: July 15, 2016, 06:20:15 AM »
To the title, your stock and DSL showcase titles
Dude thrackerzod!, you aren't bad at Stock, DSL, Ironforge (If you have it), or Real Life! Don't insult yourself! You are good, no matter what your skill is!
33
« on: July 14, 2016, 06:22:42 PM »
Pole spikes are a bad weapon choice. They have normals, which means they only deal damage in a certain direction. Using them on a VS means they won't do much damage. I'd recommend using iron spikes instead, which don't have normals.
Also, you don't need the 3 pink batteries; one supervolt is enough to power this bot.
I understand wanting to protect your wheels, but the additional mobility gained by having your wheels far apart will be worth more than the wheel protection.
This bot needs a frontal wedge, or else nothing will ever reach the spinner.
it does have a wedge, it just is a bit hard to see due to the in-game lighting and the camera angle
Chassis wedges are terrible, you need to put a wedge component on an extender attached to a green snapper.
So, like a flipper/VS hybrid?
The point of the snapper is to put pressure on the wedge so it gets under other bots. You can use it as a flipper hybrid, but you'll lose all pressure on the wedge when you fire the snapper
If you actually want to get good at stock, I would just download a decent AI pack and learn from there. Starcore v3+v4, PYS AI, INF AI, ASAI are some of the available options.
Ok, Geice
34
« on: July 14, 2016, 03:47:19 PM »
Pole spikes are a bad weapon choice. They have normals, which means they only deal damage in a certain direction. Using them on a VS means they won't do much damage. I'd recommend using iron spikes instead, which don't have normals.
Also, you don't need the 3 pink batteries; one supervolt is enough to power this bot.
I understand wanting to protect your wheels, but the additional mobility gained by having your wheels far apart will be worth more than the wheel protection.
This bot needs a frontal wedge, or else nothing will ever reach the spinner.
it does have a wedge, it just is a bit hard to see due to the in-game lighting and the camera angle
Chassis wedges are terrible, you need to put a wedge component on an extender attached to a green snapper.
So, like a flipper/VS hybrid? So it flips into the blade?
35
« on: July 14, 2016, 03:32:41 PM »
Pole spikes are a bad weapon choice. They have normals, which means they only deal damage in a certain direction. Using them on a VS means they won't do much damage. I'd recommend using iron spikes instead, which don't have normals.
Also, you don't need the 3 pink batteries; one supervolt is enough to power this bot.
I understand wanting to protect your wheels, but the additional mobility gained by having your wheels far apart will be worth more than the wheel protection.
This bot needs a frontal wedge, or else nothing will ever reach the spinner.
it does have a wedge, it just is a bit hard to see due to the in-game lighting and the camera angle
36
« on: July 14, 2016, 03:20:12 PM »
Your bot's sides will be more vulnerable if it can't turn as fast. There's a reason most bots have their drive motors as far apart as possible.
Ok, Ok...but if the exposed wheels get cut off during battle, i'll say I TOLD YOU SO.
37
« on: July 14, 2016, 03:17:38 PM »
Point the drive motors outward, you'll get better turning.
But I want my motors to not be exposed, and be at risk of being cut off.
38
« on: July 14, 2016, 02:43:09 PM »
oh, Wow, Thanks for the info, Nar...also...I've always wanted to make a robot for NAR A.I. A BTTB style bot team for NAR A.I and now...for my next bot...SUN! 2x HP ZTek Drive, HP Ztek weapon drive, 2x Maces and 2x 50 cm pointy spike, 3 small batteries and 1 Supervolt.     Please reply and say what needs to be said!
39
« on: July 14, 2016, 06:21:04 AM »
Thread necro with some new content and some old content that I've never posted before. This content is cross-posted from the Facebook page for my team, Twilight Foundry Robotics. There are some extra pics and stuff in the albums there, in most cases.
Up first is Metalhead, the first robot I ever built (in 2000). Its innards have long since been repurposed and/or destroyed so only its shell remains. It's photographed here with a stand-in "weapon" to show roughly what it used to look like. (Ironically, a couple of weeks after we took these pictures we actually found Metalhead's original blade under a bunch of crap.)
(Image removed from quote.)
Metalhead was built to compete at an event sponsored by and held at a local school. Most of the bots there were built from toys or model kits. Metalhead was the only one with a spinning active weapon and it almost didn't get to compete because people were worried about it breaking off and hitting someone or something, but we were able to fight with it anyways. After passing safety, its weapon motor died literally a few seconds into its first ever match meaning we had to fight as a wedge the rest of the tournament. Still managed to win though. Yay?
Metalhead was rebuilt two more times, but never managed to make it beyond the Round of 16 (a.k.a. literally round one) at the events it was brought to. Metalhead 1 was far too slow, so the second version used a lighter chassis made mostly of compact foam and layered cardboard; its Hazard-style blade was also swapped out for two tilted horizontal blades at its front spinning in opposite directions. In Metalhead 2's first fight it got put up against a quick rammer, the eventual runner-up, and its frame ended up getting destroyed which knocked it out. Metalhead 3 was just a wedge made mostly of cardboard and lost in a close judges' decision to another wedge.
Metalhead is currently being rebuilt as a 3 or 6 pound robot to compete at the upcoming "DARC" event in Dallas, TX.
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Next is Terminal Impact, built in 2001. When we built Terminal Impact we basically took everything we had learned from putting Metalhead together and ramped it up to 11. Terminal Impact was an immediate favorite at the second event held at the same school and ended up becoming the champion.
(Image removed from quote.)
After winning one event we made some changes to Terminal Impact's weaponry, namely replacing its disc and flails with another helicopter blade that was ridiculously long (like three feet long). Terminal Impact managed to beat one opponent in this configuration, but lost to the same rammer it beat an event prior; they stayed in too close and the robot's blade never really got spinning up to full speed. We swapped the blade out for a disc at Terminal Impact's final event, however we had an electrical issue with the robot and were forced to forfeit.
Terminal Impact is officially retired, however a design for Terminal Impact 2 has been drawn up. It's not very high on the list of priorities however, but I'll keep you posted.
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Now onto the new stuff.
This is a WIP shot of the frame of The Demolition Machine, the newest robot I've been working on.
(Image removed from quote.)
Demolition Machine is being built with some of the parts that went into the original Metalhead. Since not much is left from that robot, and because this is my first robot in quite some time, I've elected to make a simple pusher out of it. Eventually, Demolition Machine is going to have a chassis not unlike Punjar from BattleBots.
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This is a toy trick ramp I tracked down specifically for a rebuild of one of my old robots, now named The Real Crash Override.
(Image removed from quote.)
Crash Override, originally designed and built in 2001, was scrapped before it ever competed. I wasn't happy with how the build came out and instead went with rebuilding Metalhead out of those parts at the time. Its original design and iteration was a boxy wedge with a saw set inside the ramp, kind of like Ankle Biter just with a longer chassis.
In the robot's new iteration I'd like for its design to be a "spiritual successor" of sorts, that's where this goofy ramp comes into play. They were manufactured about a decade ago for the "Fly Wheels" rip cord toys, but they're made of soft plastic that deforms without cracking. Ever since I first saw one in a store I'd had my eye on it for a potential robot design. Now I have to get them on eBay. :P All of the robot's parts fit inside the "shell" nicely, it just needs to be mounted and all of that. I intend to cut a slot in the deeper curve (that's the front) and set up this rad dado blade I have.
Since this photo was taken I've since peeled off the original stickers and laquered it down to remove all the sticky residue and such. I haven't yet settled on a proper design for the robot's paint job.
The Real Crash Override will eventually be a 3 or 6 pound robot for the DARC competition in Dallas, like Metalhead 2016.
(PS: The robot is called "The Real Crash Override" now thanks to some unsavory net-dwellers commandeering the name for some stupid front of theirs. I came up with the name first and I intend to keep using it.)
What was Metalhead 1's original weight?
40
« on: July 13, 2016, 06:16:01 PM »
Some news, look what I got in the mail yesterday  :
https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/47181PIC00037.PNG
(Would of made this post yesterday, but the Img loader was borked.)
Got a chance to play around with it, pretty fun to play with, don't know if I will mod it for combat.
Dude, where did you get one of those?! I saw one on amazon for $200! Where did you get it, how much did you get it for, and how can I get it?! 
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