Not too bad for a first DSL bot.
However:
Those wheels don't have great grip, try using wheels like vlads, technos or hypnos. Just hypnos, the other two aren't great for this design
For heavyweights we usually use 2wd npc normal/fast with technos. Ignore this since it will either give you a colossal ground clearence or make your chassis too tall.
Use 3 ants instead of all those battlepacks. Your battery will run out fast if you do this, you want a few more
Might want a stabilizer on top and perhaps a few more weapons. This is fine
Try to shrink the chassis as circular ones waste a bit of weight, you can even mount the perm externally and have bottom armour (half sheets have a middle ap which attaches to the bottom) If you feel up to it try this.
Not too bad for a first DSL bot.
However:
Those wheels don't have great grip, try using wheels like vlads, technos or hypnos.
For heavyweights we usually use 2wd npc normal/fast with technos.
Use 3 ants instead of all those battlepacks.
Might want a stabilizer on top and perhaps a few more weapons.
Try to shrink the chassis as circular ones waste a bit of weight, you can even mount the perm externally and have bottom armour (half sheets have a middle ap which attaches to the bottom)
It's not too bad. Every spin motor, even the Dual Perm, only needs one ant battery to work at full speed, so you need at most 4 ants instead of 8 battlepacks. You would probably want something like 2WD NPC's with Hypno Wheels for a HW Spinner such as this one, and you could either try to stick another pair of hammers on the end of the ones you have already, or upgrade the armour if the chassis's going to be so exposed, or both.
Not too bad for a first DSL bot.
However:
Those wheels don't have great grip, try using wheels like vlads, technos or hypnos. Just hypnos, the other two aren't great for this design i was talking in general :P
For heavyweights we usually use 2wd npc normal/fast with technos. Ignore this since it will either give you a colossal ground clearence or make your chassis too tall. I havent built a ss in a while so i forget things, hypnos are your best choice here.
Use 3 ants instead of all those battlepacks. Your battery will run out fast if you do this, you want a few more 4 ants then :P
Might want a stabilizer on top and perhaps a few more weapons. This is fine
Try to shrink the chassis as circular ones waste a bit of weight, you can even mount the perm externally and have bottom armour (half sheets have a middle ap which attaches to the bottom) If you feel up to it try this.
Not too bad for a first DSL bot.
However:
Those wheels don't have great grip, try using wheels like vlads, technos or hypnos.
For heavyweights we usually use 2wd npc normal/fast with technos.
Use 3 ants instead of all those battlepacks.
Might want a stabilizer on top and perhaps a few more weapons.
Try to shrink the chassis as circular ones waste a bit of weight, you can even mount the perm externally and have bottom armour (half sheets have a middle ap which attaches to the bottom)
1. Ok, I'll use different wheels.
2. Wut? Never mind, just get npc motors and put hypno disk wheels on :P
3. Ok, 3 ants. 4 ants if you want it to last, however 3 ants is enough for quick(ish) matches
4. What sort of stabiliser and what sort of weapons do you have in mind? 120 titanium sheet if you have the weight
5. Got it.
*Claps*
Brilliant, but, remove the flipper makers, and stick a long extender on the bar.A steel one will do.
It keeps it from being stuck right on its back, where its dead meat.
If the spinner keeps on moveing, it slowly can roll about.
Hey, why do you have STOCK ui?
Better, definatly. But I would get rid of the flipper segments, possibly replace with a vertical extender of some sort to help with self righting. I would also invest in some frontal protection.
Go over to sages sig and theres a download for dsl, fully completed, with dsl ui.*Claps*
Brilliant, but, remove the flipper makers, and stick a long extender on the bar.A steel one will do.
It keeps it from being stuck right on its back, where its dead meat.
If the spinner keeps on moveing, it slowly can roll about.
Hey, why do you have STOCK ui?Better, definatly. But I would get rid of the flipper segments, possibly replace with a vertical extender of some sort to help with self righting. I would also invest in some frontal protection.
I don't know why I have stock UI. With mine the vertical extender might not be necessary.
If the bot is on it's back I keep spinning and in about 5 seconds it somehow rights, is it still necessary when the bot can self-right?
Frontal protection. I'll look into that, thanks.
Mount the plough on the side of a extra-small multi extender (which you has no chassis collision mesh and as a result you can mount it so a bit of the extender is poking outside the chassis), saving weight.
He's talking about the black and red extenders which can be mounted to the base.
Sorry if I wasn't clear.He's talking about the black and red extenders which can be mounted to the base.
Ok, thanks
Razorz increase the amount of "piercing" damage the weapons placed on them do, and, as razorz have such high piercing values, razorz are the best choice to put on flails.
If your building for Blades of Fury, don't use flails. If your not, razors are most commonly used.
don't overload it with razors, BoF is realistic mind you.Which is realistic is RA2 terms because nothing is stacked over goes through another object : P
Only needs 3 ants
USE A MAG ANDTASTEFEEL THE DIFFERENCE
DP. Done. Switched the 3 ant to a battlepack to save weight.You'll need 3 ants actually. A battlepack is the equivalent of 2.5 ants, so it's underpowered.
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/92702Project Carbon3.png)
DP. Done. Switched the 3 ant to a battlepack to save weight.You'll need 3 ants actually. A battlepack is the equivalent of 2.5 ants, so it's underpowered.
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/92702Project Carbon3.png)
Circular chassis' waste a bit of weight, try using a T-shape instead.
Circular chassis' waste a bit of weight, try using a T-shape instead.
Risky because of havok. I would recommend dropping to one wheel drive.
Shorten the CF extender, and either shrink the chassis around the components, or lower the armour if it keeps havoking.
CF = Carbon Fiber. The big long brown and black thing on top. :gawe:
And by "shrink", we normally mean reduce the surface area of the baseplate so that the components just fit and not much more.
mag snappers fail, you'd want bsg's instead.
However, for a MW you would want 1 beta or a couple of jx's
Unless you want to use bsgs...
Tbh just stick with a beta if you can build it :P
Four BSGs or two JX's. A Beta is generally not worth it because it's just too heavy and large and power draining to be used to good effect in a MW. Sure you CAN build a MW beta flipper, and you can even make it decent, but it's either too slow or fragile or underpowered.too slow or underpowered?
Plus standard betas have standard hitpoints. A hit on them will make them smoke, cutting their torque in half.
Four BSGs or two JX's. A Beta is generally not worth it because it's just too heavy and large and power draining to be used to good effect in a MW. Sure you CAN build a MW beta flipper, and you can even make it decent, but it's either too slow or fragile or underpowered.too slow or underpowered?
Plus standard betas have standard hitpoints. A hit on them will make them smoke, cutting their torque in half.
SKBT, SM and all those have managed npc+hypnos with full power iirc :P
The armour isn't that fragile, there are quite a few mw's with less armour.Four BSGs or two JX's. A Beta is generally not worth it because it's just too heavy and large and power draining to be used to good effect in a MW. Sure you CAN build a MW beta flipper, and you can even make it decent, but it's either too slow or fragile or underpowered.too slow or underpowered?
Plus standard betas have standard hitpoints. A hit on them will make them smoke, cutting their torque in half.
SKBT, SM and all those have managed npc+hypnos with full power iirc :P
With barely any armor ? Hence my point of too fragile.
I love the name but I see some things I think you need to do:Point=taken.
Use the rest of the weight, you have 57kg left. You could have protected the chassis or added more weapons. I don't think 120kg of weapons is enough for a HW VS. Also I don't exactly see the benefits of plows on the stabilizers that far out. And finally the weapon looks a bit to high to hit low bots.
So you made Cash Cow with less weapons and a slightly worse setup?And cash cow is?
First ever VS in DSL.
Also, I have a huge urge to but a DSL bar with 70kg hammers on. Me being a noob?Not at all. 70kg hammers on a Dual Perm make an excellent throwing weapon for kicking opponents up into the air. You just need to watch if one of them comes loose, it can cause instability.
DSL bar with 70kg hammers on a dual perm is my favourite weapon (especially if you have an extra 10kg to put a small DS tooth on the end of each hammer, nom :D) but yes, one hammer coming off will probably result in a lot of wobbling and flipping around.Yeah, but those hammers are pretty sturdy buggers :D
I like the looks of it, personally, but it would be even better if it was invertible.That can be dealt with. Anything else?
This is super freaky, but about 2-3 months ago I made a heavyweight bot that is almost exactly the same design as that, yet bigger. Not claiming anything about stealing, i'm just saying holy cow, freaky coincidence.Woah, that's a compliment for me, cause you're like the builder I'm trying to be like =D
Disc changed to Mechavore's disk, Vlads changed to Tornados
Mehcavore disc screws the looks over, screw efficiency.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c264/dragonsteincole/RA2/Pinny.png)*smashysmashy approves*
This is what I had, I never showcased it as I couldn't think of anything to paint it as.
Why Metal Hinges, I'd have said? I thought that'd AGOD or havok to kingdom come.I think I'll probably keep the cutting teeth - I'm not going to compete with it, anyway.
Back on topic, I would have kept the 100cm disc and Cutting Teeth, or maybe Light DS Teeth if you wanted some more effectiveness.
But you could have two bursts fire the flipper...
Longer Perm? Either that or mount the drum on the top part of the axle.Longest Perm has been used. I'll try the other idea; in hindsight, I don't know why I didn't do that in the first place.... :gawe:
And please give constructive advice, and actually tell me how to improve it rather than mocking me. I'm here to learn, not be whacked.
It did. NFXis at University so is probably not concentrated on a year old tourney.
....it was the best rookie bot in BBEANS ever, correct?
Needs 4-5 ants.ahahaha nice one. Good old times of Hredder.
(LOL hypocrite)
dude try and get better armour. aluminium generally sucks.
I'd lose a razor and upgrade the front skirts with the 8kg left.I'll try that, four is a bit too much IMO
I might lose the central 80cm poly skirt on that skirt hinge. It seems to be eating up unnecessary weight, in my view. That'll probably give you enough weight for Titanium 3 at least.Urm... about the setup, it was actually dreamt up by ty4er, so I refuse to take credit for that :P
I do like the setup, though, with the side panel.
Oh wait, turns out it was first used by 123STW.I might lose the central 80cm poly skirt on that skirt hinge. It seems to be eating up unnecessary weight, in my view. That'll probably give you enough weight for Titanium 3 at least.Urm... about the setup, it was actually dreamt up by ty4er, so I refuse to take credit for that :P
I do like the setup, though, with the side panel.
I've actually updated it since then:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/97800Popup 4.png)
Same armour, I managed to find enough weight by eliminating a razor to get aluminium sides, but the centre is still poly. Remove the centre poly all together to get tit 3?
I'll still give ty4er credityay
Metal Hinge wedges = Poor show.Metal hinge wedges = What else to use that's effective?
Chassis shape is pretty good for going with the flippers, though. I'd maybe attempt to add NPC's if at all possible, or maybe even 4WD TWM3R's. If you have the weight for it, that is.
No actually shark teeth are just awful
OH GOD NARY IS A GLOBAL MODERATOR WE ARE ALL GOING TO DIE
also I would use small DS teeth if you have 2 KG
Point taken. Improved and skinned. Now called Tickled Pink =DI would have done so if I could. =P
If this was a multibot I'd call it the GHEY Patrol xD
Not enough weight for titanium without changing the chassis or the flipper, so I added wheel guards and steel sharks teeth :gawe:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/13427Tickled Pink 1.png)
397.5
No actually shark teeth are just awful.It's still something to cause damage on a flipper. I like it.
Which is why I added them =DNo actually shark teeth are just awful.It's still something to cause damage on a flipper. I like it.
I think attaching the teeth directly too the hinge would look cooler.Agreed, but it didn't fit on :gawe:
It would work if you angled the hinge correctly. I wonder if you could mount it right up by the front edge, that would probably make it easier to get a suitable angle.
I'd drop the multi extenders and attach the teeth directly to the hinge, use a larger rear DSL bar, and your wheel guards look to far out to make them look good.I don't necessarily see much of an advantage of not having the extenders other than having more weight, as it won't be invertible anyway. They also tend to supplement the flipping action that setups like that give.
On second thoughts, I think you're right. Removing the multi-extenders would be a bit pointless.I'd drop the multi extenders and attach the teeth directly to the hinge, use a larger rear DSL bar, and your wheel guards look to far out to make them look good.I don't necessarily see much of an advantage of not having the extenders other than having more weight, as it won't be invertible anyway. They also tend to supplement the flipping action that setups like that give.
As for the rest, I agree.
On second thoughts, I think you're right. Removing the multi-extenders would be a bit pointless.I'd drop the multi extenders and attach the teeth directly to the hinge, use a larger rear DSL bar, and your wheel guards look to far out to make them look good.I don't necessarily see much of an advantage of not having the extenders other than having more weight, as it won't be invertible anyway. They also tend to supplement the flipping action that setups like that give.
As for the rest, I agree.
Skinning is your friend in this case.On second thoughts, I think you're right. Removing the multi-extenders would be a bit pointless.I'd drop the multi extenders and attach the teeth directly to the hinge, use a larger rear DSL bar, and your wheel guards look to far out to make them look good.I don't necessarily see much of an advantage of not having the extenders other than having more weight, as it won't be invertible anyway. They also tend to supplement the flipping action that setups like that give.
As for the rest, I agree.
But... But... they make it ugly.... the black and red doesn't go with the rest of the robot.
IDEA GET!Sure.
How about we give it a black and red paintjob? =D
What? :FFFUUUIDEA GET!Sure.
How about we give it a black and red paintjob? =D
You'll need to skin the skirts though.
â–²I think attaching the teeth directly too the hinge would look cooler.Agreed, but it didn't fit on :gawe:
Nary is right here, razors would work better than multis with cutting teeth.
But I'd keep the wheel guards for the rule of cool.
I'm halfway through making a black and red chassis, so I'm nawt removing the multi extenders =P
Plus, yes I can snapper load. problem? And does snapper load apply with skirts?
Ah, I see. I just thought if there was no burst function, it wouldn't work. Whoops =PI'm halfway through making a black and red chassis, so I'm nawt removing the multi extenders =P
it's still weight wasted.Plus, yes I can snapper load. problem? And does snapper load apply with skirts?
Yes of course. If you haven't remarked, skirts are burst motors, and "snapper" loading works with all mobile axles.
Ah, I see. I just thought if there was no burst function, it wouldn't work. Whoops =PI'm halfway through making a black and red chassis, so I'm nawt removing the multi extenders =P
it's still weight wasted.Plus, yes I can snapper load. problem? And does snapper load apply with skirts?
Yes of course. If you haven't remarked, skirts are burst motors, and "snapper" loading works with all mobile axles.
I do agree about weight wasted, but hate half-finishing things. I'm still deciding whether or not to scrap the paintjob, however.
Cool painjobs make bots that much more awesome.Why thank you =P
Yes.
Yes.
Do you reckon it would be best to scrap the paintjob?
And does snapper loading work pretty much the same in Stock?
Oh and is the copal the best motor to use?
1. I have none :gawe:Do you reckon it would be best to scrap the paintjob?
This is not a question for me to answer. You have your own aesthetical sense.And does snapper loading work pretty much the same in Stock?
Yes, why would it change ? DSL shares exactly the same core mechanics as stock. DSL is just stock with new armors, components, bots, skins and arenas.Oh and is the copal the best motor to use?
I find it the best because the copal's axle easily goes out of it's socket, yes. But astroflights are as good as copals in overall.
Maybe copals would be better than astros because they're lighter, and it seems that heavy attachments have more difficulty going off axle in snapper load.
Try angled poly skirts for stabilizers and you can also use a DSL bar instead of 2 segments to hold the TWM3R.Ah, ok. Use skirt hinges for the stabilisers, I assume?
nononononononodont that will make it too bouncy. Just remove the angled segments and place angled skirts on the same spots and angle them down a bit.Oh, right. Thanks =D
Any thoughts on the wammer?
You could attach the poly skirts directly to the ME's. You might have to reposition the ME's to have them pointing outwards properly, but it would save 4kg. And put the Shark's Tooth in place of the Typhoon Spike. Same weight, but lower weaponry. If it begins skittering along the ground, try a Matilda tooth, or Light DS Tooth.Ah, now I get you. I will attempt the get the skirts to work. Later. I'll be out for a few hours. =P
It looks not too bad. But I might attach the Small Wedges directly to the Skirt hinge, and swap for some grippier wheels, either Hypnos or DSL Wheels.I failed it doing it properly. Would snapper loading it be deemed as IRL?
It looks not too bad. But I might attach the Small Wedges directly to the Skirt hinge, and swap for some grippier wheels, either Hypnos or DSL Wheels.I failed it doing it properly. Would snapper loading it be deemed as IRL?
It doesn't. I just tried it.It looks not too bad. But I might attach the Small Wedges directly to the Skirt hinge, and swap for some grippier wheels, either Hypnos or DSL Wheels.I failed it doing it properly. Would snapper loading it be deemed as IRL?
Axle Loading them onto the Skirt Hinge would probably work, yeah.
Sweet bot.Perhaps one of the best IRL builders ever to like my bot?
Pretty nice. I'm wondering if the wheelguards could be positioned a bit closer to the wheels, that might make it look a little better. And perhaps angle the Flipper Segments at the front, to give a more pointed/rounded appearance.By the front, do you mean the one that protects the chain? I kinda made that squarer to protect it more :3
TP, just to bump it.Groovy- I particularly like the use of wheelguards and the protection for the disc. Quite a good remake :claping
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/3151Green%20Tree%20Frog.png)
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/22837Green%20Tree%20Frog2.png)
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/24926Green%20Tree%20Frog3.png)
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/48208Green%20Tree%20Frog4.png)
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/7149Green%20Tree%20Frog5.png)
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/29597Green%20Tree%20Frog6.png)
OMG 7 PICS
I like the weapon motor guard.Why thank you :3
DP:
1. Makes finishing touches to IRL MW
2. Makes Cash Cow ripoff with hammers
3. Tests
4. Gets beaten by flip test dummy
Kill me.
Can we see this ripoff, smashy?No :3
Doesn't look too bad. Might be a little bit fast for a spinner like that, though.Yeah, but I figured I'd use all Mags for teh lulz
Those weapons have normals iirc and that chassis IS SO BIG
wait is this irl
I was guessing IRL building too. It's a little bit like Hazard.
I'm slightly skeptical about the front supports being taken off, though.Thanks, NFX =D
Looks very nice indeed. =D Only problem I can see is the lack of axle supports for the drums.Yeah, I built the belt support then ran out of imagination =D
Weapon spam much?*facepalm*
And still no axle support D:
Damaging brittle weapons are almost never used IRL.Ah, I see.
By axle support, I meant that at the moment the drum is only supported on one side, there needs to be axle supports on the outside of the drum.
I liked the other one more.To be honest, so did I. Until the effectiveness police attacked it...
I think the axle supports look fine. The only other thing I might do is axle-load the top extender so it goes into the drum instead of away from it.
As a finishing touch it would look totally awesome (and be more stable) with little spikes on the ends of those four 20cm extenders pointing forward under the drum. I recommend pointy tips.
Also, hope BB5 signups fill up quickly because I don't want to face that. *need smiley of that one rageface of the guy turning away in horror and revulsion*
*need smiley of that one rageface of the guy turning away in horror and revulsion*
*need smiley of that one rageface of the guy turning away in horror and revulsion*
You mean this ?
Also, cease using bad weapons.
Also, cease using bad weapons.No. This bot is for the rule of cool, and I don't want the effectiveness police ruining it again.
I can't see too much wrong with it. It looks like a really complicated gardening device of some description. =D
Well, that's called a ripoff smashy.Indeed. Most really effective LW bots are so good the only way to be as good (or better) than them is to have a really similar design.
With how tiny the chassis is, i'm surprised at how it doesn't nasty pickle out of the arena..Forgive me; I haven't even come across the nasty pickle glitch before today.
Build HW, it's a lot less futile when looking for originality.Well, that's called a ripoff smashy.Indeed. Most really effective LW bots are so good the only way to be as good (or better) than them is to have a really similar design.
Y'know, I'm surprised how no-one's realised how this bot is much better and cleaner than all other DSL Realistic bots I've made.... ah well.With how tiny the chassis is, i'm surprised at how it doesn't nasty pickle out of the arena..Forgive me; I haven't even come across the nasty pickle glitch before today.
I've built a less havoky version but I see no reason to showcase it.
Any suggestions as to what type of LW DSL Realistic bot to make? Or possibly a good bot to clone so I can get some experience in?
I. HARDLY. EVER. STRAY. OUTSIDE. OF. MW.... GAH! *has a fit*Build TRFBD and my bragging rights will increase, build poker and you'll win originality points. Go figure.
Sounds like fun. What to build?
Small chassis only havoks with internal drive motors (usually). Put the Copal on a multiextender or something and it should be fine.Understood, thanks.
Also, that bottom armor is nearly useless mounted on a skirt hinge. It will just flex out of the way and bots will still hit your chassis. It needs to be mounted so it can't move.
BFE the chassis lower, mount the Mags unraised, use WaWs. Profit?Haven't done BFE, don't really like BFE, tbh. May try if I can be bothered to learn.
Hmmm, it would be better if you moved the Vlad spike out for better reach.No. I wanted the Vlad spike for one realistic (and tough) spike. I also didn't want it to reach out too far and look unwieldy.
How does it do in battle? how many Ants?It's currently untested. And four.
No, the shape was best done in game. As for height BFE, look here: https://gametechmods.com/forums/index.php/topic,9216.msg460838.html#msg460838BFE the chassis lower, mount the Mags unraised, use WaWs. Profit?Haven't done BFE, don't really like BFE, tbh. May try if I can be bothered to learn.Hmmm, it would be better if you moved the Vlad spike out for better reach.No. I wanted the Vlad spike for one realistic (and tough) spike. I also didn't want it to reach out too far and look unwieldy.How does it do in battle? how many Ants?It's currently untested. And four.
So what I've done is spent a long time making a bad bot pointlessly when I could have BFE'd the chassis? :embarr
You, are awesome. Having a read now =3No, the shape was best done in game. As for height BFE, look here: https://gametechmods.com/forums/index.php/topic,9216.msg460838.html#msg460838BFE the chassis lower, mount the Mags unraised, use WaWs. Profit?Haven't done BFE, don't really like BFE, tbh. May try if I can be bothered to learn.Hmmm, it would be better if you moved the Vlad spike out for better reach.No. I wanted the Vlad spike for one realistic (and tough) spike. I also didn't want it to reach out too far and look unwieldy.How does it do in battle? how many Ants?It's currently untested. And four.
So what I've done is spent a long time making a bad bot pointlessly when I could have BFE'd the chassis? :embarr
Go for a u-shaped chassis instead of the h-shaped chassis you have now and see if that helps.Before I rush blindly into this, what would this achieve?
going with a u-shaped chassis weighs less than a h-shaped chassis iirc.But why? The volume would be identical.
It's all about surface area in RA2.going with a u-shaped chassis weighs less than a h-shaped chassis iirc.But why? The volume would be identical.
*facepalm*It's all about surface area in RA2.going with a u-shaped chassis weighs less than a h-shaped chassis iirc.But why? The volume would be identical.
You act like this is the first time ra2 hasn't made senseYou, sir, have a point.
is it meant to be irlWhoops, yes it is. Sorry =3
It's all about surface area in RA2.going with a u-shaped chassis weighs less than a h-shaped chassis iirc.But why? The volume would be identical.
Actually in this case, a U chassis and an H chassis would weigh exactly the same. All you're doing is sliding the middle segment forward or backward.Hmmmm, that's an idea. Might have a go.
You will only save weight by bringing two of the "arms" of the H together into one thicker center arm, thus eliminating the gap in the middle. The end result would be sort of a Y chassis (assuming you want to leave the front gap for the Vlad spike).
Reminds me of Tracer Bullet.
You can cut down on empty space, there. You can also downgrade those extenders, as the plow will probably protect them.No, and no.
I like it, I for one find srmechs impossible so far so I beholden to you :DCheers :beer:
i think you should angle the plow and make it a flipper, so the judge burst gets used for more than a whole 5 seconds in matchesEeyup.
(i'm assuming thats irl?)
I like it, I for one find srimechs impossible so far so I beholden to you :DExtender + Burst = Easy srimech...
I like the design of the bot, but I don't actually like how far the plow goes over, personally. If it was limited to nearly vertical, I think that would look a bit better, in my view, but you would have to find weight for another srimech-type thing.Yeah, I guess it didn't need to be that far. The only reason it is is because I liked messing around with it and doing flips :3 and because I wanted to show you kind people how it worked :P
Calm down, bro. It depends on the type of bot.I like it, I for one find srimechs impossible so far so I beholden to you :DExtender + Burst = Easy srimech...
Looks like a FW from series 2 of RW.I never noticed that =3
Looks decent, if lacking in weaponry. Not a bad IRL build, in my view. How long does the shell take to get up to speed?Thanks, brah. If I'm honest, it's pretty quick.
I hate what Sheck Spinners have been reduced to in IRL building. At least give it some decent no-normals weapons.One problem, mate. This is IRL, not efficiency building. These components look most like what you'd find on real life shell spinners, and so, that's what's best, right? I know the normals are a massive pain in the behind, but this isn't standard DSL building. R0b0 said it best, it's not for the purpose of battle.
It's boring, unoriginal and inefficient.FTFY
I think its pretty decent, if theres room to make the chassis a bit smaller and lower maybe you could do that, and maybe add more spinner segments to protect it. From what I've been told maybe it needs more battery power, also perhaps you could put the control unit somewhere along the central axis to keep the weight balance perfect. Overall though I'd say it was a decent looking bot.A NEWB ! GIVING ME ADVICE ! GET BACK IN YOUR PEN, WEAKLING !
I'd put more than 2 teeth on it. I've only really seen one shell spinner IRL with that kind of tooth setup, and IIRC it didn't fare well.Right, thanks. But what would be best to downgrade to get that extra weight?
I hate what Sheck Spinners have been reduced to in IRL building. At least give it some decent no-normals weapons.One problem, mate. This is IRL, not efficiency building. These components look most like what you'd find on real life shell spinners, and so, that's what's best, right? I know the normals are a massive pain in the behind, but this isn't standard DSL building. R0b0 said it best, it's not for the purpose of battle.
A NEWB ! GIVING ME ADVICE ! GET BACK IN YOUR PEN, WEAKLING !
[/Naryar Mode]
if theres room to make the chassis a bit smaller and lower maybe you could do that
and maybe add more spinner segments to protect it.
From what I've been told maybe it needs more battery power
also perhaps you could put the control unit somewhere along the central axis to keep the weight balance perfect.
So...
How about I just don't bother? All I build seems to be sh** anyway.
Yeah, great. But not easy when you have hardly any skills and behavioural problems.So...
How about I just don't bother? All I build seems to be sh** anyway.
You'll be far more respected and useful if you build interesting bots/give good advice or ideas or feedback/make things for the community.
And giving up won't improve things.
Build bots, fight bots, and evolve by both means. That's what playing RA2 means to me, at last.
I like it. Depends on how damaging it is, really. I'd personally stick with Normals, if you go too quickly, you'll kick yourself over on a big hit. I'd also swap the DSL bars for 80cm or 120cm skirts if that was possible, then perhaps upgrade the armour with the weight saved.It is quite damaging. I don't have NarAI just yet but it defeated Tempest (although I admit, only just).
After a random convo with Craaig on skype, I thought I'd also make a VS. (It wasn't mentioned by him that I should make one, but his sheer awesomeness compelled me to.)
After a random convo with Craaig on skype, I thought I'd also make a VS. (It wasn't mentioned by him that I should make one, but his sheer awesomeness compelled me to.)
N'awh <3
But yes, what NFX said. I'd use the skirts, and not upgrade drive.. gets a little too much having fasts on a mw vs, I find.
Not bad, as NFX said, skirts are the best for stabilizers on spinners (more stable and less weight).On an E TEK? There won't be enough reach. Or am I missing something?
If I were you, I'd try a different weapon set up, with a VS, it helps to have a larger weapon surface area to add to the "puntability" of the weaponry.
Give hex plates and razorz a go.
I would put more weapons on there and use a less powerful motor reallyWill do for the next version.
Not bad, as NFX said, skirts are the best for stabilizers on spinners (more stable and less weight).Likewise.
If I were you, I'd try a different weapon set up, with a VS, it helps to have a larger weapon surface area to add to the "puntability" of the weaponry.
Give hex plates and razorz a go.
Alu extenders on stabilizers are useless.Indeed, yes, but no matter how far out I could get those ME's, the tite sheets would reject the idea of attaching.
Not too bad, but I would use different wheels if you're going for IRL.Vlads?
Not too bad, but I would use different wheels if you're going for IRL.Disagreed.
But wouldn't that get pushed in to the main chassis if a bot or weapon goes against it, as skirt hinges aren't rigid?Try and get it so it intersects your wedge, then it generally doesn't happen.
Which part of the wedge; Wedge Extender or Small Wedge? Or does it not matter?But wouldn't that get pushed in to the main chassis if a bot or weapon goes against it, as skirt hinges aren't rigid?Try and get it so it intersects your wedge, then it generally doesn't happen.
Untested, downloading Nar.AI as we speak. Which bots have good wedges to test against?Team Despair has a couple of good MWs to test against.
Total rebuild by ignoring all of you and listening to a friend on Skype =P
Heh, the name was by me, actually :gawe:Total rebuild by ignoring all of you and listening to a friend on Skype =P
With a that setup, and that name, it's ty. And ty's popups are known for their amazingness :rolleyes:
Too much extender work there. Also the beaters touch the ground.Okay, yeah the chassis is minimum height.
Make a flatter weapon rack, and use larger beaters.
May want to rotate the wheels and see if it fixes anything. Is the chassis minimum height ?
not use the storm burst motorExplain?
they have a tendency to AGOD, as proven herenot use the storm burst motorExplain?
I went back to the bot to replace the wedges and after I put 120cm alu sheets on... AGOD. So I exported/imported. That didn't work, so I did this:
>Delete all wedges and wheels, including motors
>Pause
>Attach both metal hinges and skirts
>Garage
>Unpause
>Back
>Didn't work
>Repeat 10 times
>This photo
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/60293AGOD1.png)
Is there nothing else I can do?
Try and export your bot in robot designs, then import it in a different team slot.
So I exported/imported.
DL the RA2 randomiser, and do what it says. [/selfplug]Sure, why not.
Not quite finished the rammer, which somehow turned into a CW :Li think you can put a plow on a skirt hinge on the front to kill forward rolls(but you have to own the collision mesh-less version).
But there's a problem. It's front-heavy and so does a forward roll pretty much every time it hits an opponent. Is there a way to combat this?
I'm sorry, what?Look at Tigger in my showcase if you wanna know what i mean.
FSS = GheyWhat good would that do, except make me get raped by popups and gutrippers?
Maybe you could remove the angle sheets for Alu 1, possibly?
1WD = fail
and no gauche he doesn't need a plow to be more stable. Just stabilizers.
1WD = fail
and no gauche he doesn't need a plow to be more stable. Just stabilizers.
Someone doesn't seem to know how to build the best FSS :P
What? I'm confused. I'm using invincible halfsheets right now. Or is that what you mean by angled sheets?No, I was referring to the halfsheets attached to the baseplate. Sometimes a popup or other gutripping opponent can glitch its weapons through the halfsheets and score a hit on the chassis. If you've only got Plastic 1 at the moment, that's going to cause you some problems.
EDIT: Derp. You mean the ones on the top. Silly me. And sorry TRB, I thought you meant the halfsheets :3
Will try now. Thanks NFX =]
Yeah, I understand. My mind was just going into spasm. :3What? I'm confused. I'm using invincible halfsheets right now. Or is that what you mean by angled sheets?No, I was referring to the halfsheets attached to the baseplate. Sometimes a popup or other gutripping opponent can glitch its weapons through the halfsheets and score a hit on the chassis. If you've only got Plastic 1 at the moment, that's going to cause you some problems.
EDIT: Derp. You mean the ones on the top. Silly me. And sorry TRB, I thought you meant the halfsheets :3
Will try now. Thanks NFX =]