gametechmods
Robot Arena => Showcases => DSL TC Showcases => Topic started by: COOLRUNNER87 on January 12, 2010, 08:54:17 PM
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Most of you don't know of me. However, if you were ever at RFSHQ, you may remember me there as a very amateur robot builder in RA. Now, I come here to show you the good, the bad, and the ugly (which will likely be most of my 'bots) as I'm not very experienced with DSL.
Well, now to show my first robot, The Dark Knight!
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/30730DarkKnight.jpg)
Weapon: 4x Gothic Axe on 2 100cm Discs, Powered by an E-Tek Dual Axle; also an 80cm titanium front skirt
Motors/Wheels: 2x Backlash Wheels on 2 Team Whyachi Motors (Drive version)
Batteries: 1x Long Black (mistake, I know) and 2x Ant Batteries
Armor: Plastic 5
Here's a picture of the innards:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/42590DarkKnightInside.jpg)
The robot has some issues (Mako-style flipping when the motor starts up) and easy tipping. Also, as you can see, I am just over the weight limit for the MW division (which is where I want to get it to).
So, do you have any ideas, thoughts, or n00b!!!! comments?
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Welcome to the forum. We hope you stick around. I recommend to downgrade the front skirts to aluminum and bring the plastic armor down a notch so that you can have enough weight to add a hinge and a "tail" to the back of the bot. The tail can be a sheet of aluminum too if you want. A lot of the builders that make Vertical Spinners seem to favor having skirts go in different directions (front/back, left/right etc) it makes the bot operate more stable.
I am sure there are other pointers to offer... I will leave those tips to some of the other builders.
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You could use lighter wheels, but the best option would to use any armor under 3mm Aluminum. DSA in DSL is just as heavy, but with far less strength than 1mm Plastic. Might I recommend 1mm titanium?
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Also you can also build to the weight limit or down grade a couple things to make a middleweight.
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Also you can also build to the weight limit or down grade a couple things to make a middleweight.
Trust me, I was trying to build to the weight limit, but upgrading the armor from Plastic 3 to Plastic 5 made it go just above the limit.
Also, thanks to Jack and R1885 for the help. Now, for the updated Dark White Knight:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/53599WhiteKnight.jpg)
Did much of what Jack said: downgraded to Plastic 3 armor, 80cm Aluminum side and back plates. No more Mako flipping or easy tipping. Of course, I'm still open to more ideas.
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Well, how does it perform?
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For side stabilizer you can try mounting a half sheet on the bottom along with 2 40cm polycarbonate skirts on each end.
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I dunno what you've done with the batts for the new one, but it is commonly accepted that, for spin motors, 1 ant batt per motor is enough.
Welcome to GTM, or welcome back to the RA community, one or the other :P
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Use Vlads or Hypnos, 4-5 ant batteries and something else than these axes since they have normals = less damage.
Good to see oldtimers to return.
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I dunno what you've done with the batts for the new one, but it is commonly accepted that, for spin motors, 1 ant batt per motor is enough.
Welcome to GTM, or welcome back to the RA community, one or the other :P
That seems a bit... light, especially for that hulking thing.
As for battling this thing... I've yet to do it. :confused: I have classes 11 hours a day twice a week, and school/sleep trumps robot making. I'll test it out tonight when I get back from classes and my gaming club's meeting.
Also, I've got an AW in the works, and some of you may remember the stock LW edition of it back over at RFSHQ: Clothes Off! However, I've got to rework it, since it makes *insert horrible RA2 builders here* work look good.
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That seems a bit... light, especially for that hulking thing.
And that's exactly what a lot of people thought when the discovery about motor use/battery output was discovered :P you can easily run a dual perm (the huuuuge motor) with just 1 ant batt. Obviously, it's better to have more - a lot of people have a maximum of 2 to a spin motor.
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For some weird reason all spin motors in RA2 drain 10 amps, so a bot needs 1 ant batt by spin motor.
However, if you don't want your bot's batteries to run out of power too easily, you can add a few more, but more than 2 per spin motor (burst motors not included if you use some) is overkill for a 3-minute fight.
Edit: I forgot to mention than the WP836E is the worst battery choice you have in RA2.
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For some weird reason all spin motors in RA2 drain 10 amps, so a bot needs 1 ant batt by spin motor.
However, if you don't want your bot's batteries to run out of power too easily, you can add a few more, but more than 2 per spin motor (burst motors not included if you use some) is overkill for a 3-minute fight.
Yeah, I'll be probably changing it up to 4-5 ants, changing the weaponry to put on 2-4 irons (depending on weight) per disc and taking off the Gothic Axes.
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Consider switching to small DSL Disk (the silver one) if you intend to put 4 irons on each disk.
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Sorry I've been away for the last few days. Been dealing with school. Anyway, I've just finished updating The White Knight, and here it is:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/7416WK3.jpg)
And the insides:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/28321WK3I.jpg)
You can see I've done a few things to update this:
2 new 120cm Polycarb side extenders to keep WK from turning on his fool head
4 Ant Batteries; no more issues with Long Black and Crappy
2 Hypno wheels
And the biggest change: replaced the 100cm discs for 2 Small DSL Discs with 4 Iron Spikes per Disc
It does decently against most of the 2.1 AI, but it obviously still needs some improvement.
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use multiextenders instead of anchors
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use multiextenders instead of anchors
It's ok in this case I think STC.
That's pretty good for someone this new, KUTGW.
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I was told to use multiextenders so I assumed always,but idk
and yeah,really decent for a new member
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I was told to use multiextenders so I assumed always,but idk
and yeah,really decent for a new member
The main purpose to use multi extenders is to save weight. In this case he needs an angle directly from the chassis that a multiextender cannot provide... and if you added a angle extender to a multi extender it would defeat the purpose of saving weight.
So, yeah, this is one of those rare instances when a multiextender really would not be useful.
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I think you can use multi-extender in this case, you just use the side connection so you can rotate it.
That aside, I don't think the point of multi-extender is the 1kg, but the reduce in space used, allowing for smaller chassis.
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Well, time for the second robot: Bullseye.
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/94080Bullseye.jpg)
Really wish I could show you the insides, but the game decided to crash on me and erase my work.
Anyway, the bot was using the following:
2 Small DSL discs with 2 Iron Spikes on Each
2 Piglet Motors for Weapon Power
2 NPC's for Driving Power
2 Tornado Wheels
3 Extra Wide Plates for Side and Back Armor
3 Extra Small Extenders, 2 Small Extenders on the sides to keep the robot realistic
4 Ant Batteries
3mm Plastic Armor
Also, there was a good bit of space on the inside; that can be worked on and improved with new incarnations as well as that weight issue.
So, advice on remaking and improving the robot?
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Well, due to some error in the ramplate's .txt file, the 30kg ramplate just downright sucks. You could use Panic skirts or metal skirts, and if you fix your chassis space, you'll have enough weight to add more weapons to the discs. Add a wedge if you have more free weight.
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Get Vlads and try to fit a wedge on this. More weapons will also help.
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Replace Ramplate with Large Ski, and use the remaining weight for more weapons.
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Now, for the remake of Bullseye:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/67776Bullseye2.jpg)
The insides:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/99366Bullseye2I.jpg)
Upgrades:
8 Iron Spikes (up from 4)
4 Very Small Multiextenders
2 Large Ski attachments
2 Tazbot wheels (main reason I didn't choose Vlads is that they're not invertible with the robot/NPC's)
Wedge in front made out of 80cm Aluminum parts
Obviously, I still need to increase my weight. Any advice on getting myself to at least 397 kg?
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switch out the piglets for better motors
if you don't have room move the batterys around till they fit somewere, maybe change the drive
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Shrink the chassis and/or eliminate empty space.
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Try SlipperBottom wheels.
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switch out the piglets for better motors
if you don't have room move the batterys around till they fit somewere, maybe change the drive
Dude, do you even have DSL? Please quit giving bad advice.
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Slims or Tornados would probably be a better choice.
switch out the piglets for better motors
if you don't have room move the batterys around till they fit somewere, maybe change the drive
NO
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Sparks, that's PROOF you haven't been listening at all.
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I bet the next time he'll give advice in a DSL showcase, he'll say Piglets are good for drive.
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*rolling on the floor* :mrgreen:
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I bet the next time he'll give advice in a DSL showcase, he'll say Piglets are good for drive.
Just making sure about this, then:
Piglets are just fine for weapon motors in this case. Correct?
Also, quick plans for my Bullseye Mark 3:
Shrink the length of the chassis by about 2 rows
Look into other types of wheels (not exactly sure if Tornados can keep me invertible, but I'll look into them again)
Upgrade armor to ??? (5mm Tite if it allows; if not... I dunno)
Anything else?
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Piglets are ONLY for weapon uses.
If you can't get Tornados to make your bot invertible then try Slipperbottoms (They're better though so you might just forget about Tornados). By the way, i do have a MW FS that uses Vlads and it is perfectly invertible.
And honestly your chassis is big enough... maybe even too big.
Last point - lighten your extender setup. Remove the skis and 4 multi extenders, then put just 2 baseplate-attached multi's protruding halfway through the chassis and attach directly the skis to them, you'll save 6 precious kg's.
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I bet the next time he'll give advice in a DSL showcase, he'll say Piglets are good for drive.
no, they suck and I know that
I was just giving Ideas, should have stated that, that's just how I'D set hime up, but then again, I don't have DSL so what do I know :mrgreen:
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If you don't have DSL, why are you even giving advice about it?
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I was judging by what other people say, I know about stuff in DSL, just don't have it
I lurk......a lot
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Why don't you have DSL?
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should'nt I master stock before DSL? and I'm gonna get it, I just don't know if I'd be able to do all the file copying, renaming and moving stuff :mrgreen:
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Stock and DSL are so much different that most of things you learn to use in stock, mainly glitches and stacking are not even allowed in DSL because DSL is for realism and stock is not.
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QFT
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Well, I took most of your guys advice (except for that one guy; you know the one), and here is the newest modification of Bullseye:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/6664Bullseye3.jpg)
And the insides:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/58772Bullseye3I.jpg)
Upgrades:
Shrunk the length of the chassis by two rows (any more, and I could run into some issues with the sides)
Scrapped two multi-extenders, saving that precious 6kg (thanks, Naryar!)
Changed to 2x Slipperbottom wheels
Added 2 more Iron Spikes to the FS, making the total weight of weapons @ 100kg (an accomplishment for me)
Same everything else (4 ants, 2 NPC's, 2 Piglets, 2 Large Skis, Plastic 3 armor). Any advice on getting me to that weight limit?
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Stock and DSL are so much different that most of things you learn to use in stock, mainly glitches and stacking are not even allowed in DSL because DSL is for realism and stock is not.
IMO snapper loading and eFFeing are required if you want to be a top DSL'er.
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That's really nice, CR.
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That's really nice, CR.
Now if I can keep the thing from tipping over from the wedge...
Should I downsize the wedge to 40cm panels, or is the 80cm just fine?
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Good Job CoolRunner...
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MW Shebeast, anyone?
Get NAR AI v2.1. Try to beat the MW's there.
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Your improvements to Bullseye 3 are terrific. Keep up the good work.
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Now, to bot #3: Drazah (Hazard spelled sdrawkcab).
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/51484drazah.jpg)
The insides:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/96102drazahi.jpg)
The stats:
-Plastic 5 Armor
-2 Hypno Wheels on 2 Astroflight Motors
-4 Ant Batteries
-2 80cm Aluminum panels and 4 80cm Angled Aluminum panels to form the 2 wedges
-2 120cm Aluminum panels to keep the robot from flipping
-1 Normal E-Tek for weapon power
-1 20x200 DSL Bar
-2 30kg Sledgehammers
Still a bit light, and obviously needs some improvement. Ideas? Thoughts? Ramblings for another 2 pages b/c of a certain kid?
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Use up the weight by upgrading armor or improving drive if possible
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Use up the weight
... *sigh*
Squirrel, I know that. I'm asking for ideas to do just that, as well as making this thing better.
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Another ant battery?
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unnecessary, and my post was unfinished
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For internal motor, try lowering the chassis and use mag 4, or mag 2 if you don't have the weight.
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For internal motor, try lowering the chassis and use mag 4, or mag 2 if you don't have the weight.
Once I can start tooling around on it, I'll probably go down to a dual-mag. The quad-mag is just a little too big to fit in the bot.
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Use up the weight
... *sigh*
HA!! I told you I was not the only one that did that!!
Squirrel, I know that. I'm asking for ideas to do just that, as well as making this thing better.
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Once I can start tooling around on it, I'll probably go down to a dual-mag. The quad-mag is just a little too big to fit in the bot.
Wouldn't you have to rebuild the chassis anyway since you have to lower it? In a sense the whole point of moving to mag is so your chassis (and hammers) isn't so high.
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Use up the weight
... *sigh*
HA!! I told you I was not the only one that did that!!
Squirrel, I know that. I'm asking for ideas to do just that, as well as making this thing better.
Nobody cares sparkey...
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Nobody cares sparkey...
well said
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please make your screenshots PNG's!
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please make your screenshots PNG's!
I thought JPG's were okay to use as well around here...
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JPG's mess them up a bit, PNG's do much better.
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Why do his JPGs take eons to load anyway? Just wondering...
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Why do his JPGs take eons to load anyway? Just wondering...
Screencaps+not resizing= 3.75MB pics... whoops.
I'll be resizing them. Also, new pics coming soon...
(edit: whee hee effups!)
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Now, for the remod:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/97632drazah2.jpg)
The insides:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/90130drazah2i.jpg)
Changes:
-Downgrade to Plastic 3 Armor, 120cm Polycarb panels on the sides, and 20x160 DSL Bar
-Upgrade to Tornado Mer (Quad Mag) Gearbox
Weight's closer, but something still seems a bit... off.
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oohhhhhhhhhhhhhh that looks dangerous
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oohhhhhhhhhhhhhh that looks dangerous
HAHAHAHAHA
It's too slow (and not wedgy enough) to get a bot on the wedge and be efficient.
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Downgrade the rear stabilizers to polycarbonate and add a metal hinge wedge in the front. Try to be weight-conservative on the side stabilizers as well so you can upgrade the drive.
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It took a while (classes and the like), but here's my new robot, Private Eyes:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/57959PrivateEyes.png)
The insides:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/56362PrivateEI.png)
The stats:
Weight: 247.3 kg (LW)
Weapon: 4x Razor Tips on 2x Small DSL Discs, powered by 2x Piglet Motors
Other outside weapons: 80cm Polycarb frontal skirt, 80cm Polycarb back piece to keep robot from flipping (also, Extra Small multi-extender)
Motors: 2x Slimbodies
Wheels: 2x Tornados
Power: 4x Ants
Armor: Plastic 3
Ideas to possibly make this better:
Taking out a battery, shortening the front skirt to 40 cm, changing Razor Tips to Irons, (if possible) changing motors to Whyachi Drives
So do any of you have any thoughts or questions on this?
(edit and PS: Before you ask "What happened to Drazah?", I'm still tooling around on it; it's been upgraded to T-64's for Drives and also has a few other upgrades to it; I may have it up before Sunday, but no guarantees.)
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I like it, play around with the setup and see if you can get more weapons on. I think 3 ants would be good but I'm not sure.
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IMO that only needs 3 ants. Replace the 2 razors with 4 small DS teeth.
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IMO that only needs 3 ants. Replace the 2 razors with 4 small DS teeth.
How many damn times i've told you that 1 spin motor = 1 ant ???
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IMO that only needs 3 ants. Replace the 2 razors with 4 small DS teeth.
How many damn times i've told you that 1 spin motor = 1 ant ???
Actually, I already tested that earlier (when I was changing things over to Iron Spikes originally). It isn't horrible, but it does start to not work as effectively with about 45 seconds left on a 3 minute clock.
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i like private eyes
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Update on Private Eyes:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/28531screenshot_3.png)
The insides:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/98236screenshot_2.png)
Changes:
-Front skirt reduced to 40cm polycarb
-Removed back stabilizer (worried about this)
-Changed weapons to 8x Small DS Teeth
So, should I change anything up? It does have a rather exposed rear, and I fear that I can be beaten the crap out of that way.
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Don't worry about the exposed rear, AI bots don't attack that way anyway.
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for some reason I think those wheels could be valnurable.....
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You have the weight to upgrade to a metal hinge wedge, and I think Vlads would be better here.
Nary's gonna be pissed when he sees that you cloned one of his bots, but don't worry; most builders start out cloning other bots.
...wait...
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Yeah when I saw that I thought,"OMG Silver Star 2!"
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You have the weight to upgrade to a metal hinge wedge, and I think Vlads would be better here.
Nary's gonna be pissed when he sees that you cloned one of his bots, but don't worry; most builders start out cloning other bots.
...wait...
I didn't even take a look at Naryar's DSL showcase. I just wanted to create a LW version of Bullseye (which, in turn, is a MW version of Shebeast).
Also, I really want to keep the 3-piece front wedge. Having hinges, while better, would only give me one wedge that would not be as effective as having the full wedge.
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I see now. It actually reminds me more of The Digger than Silver Star. I think we can let it slide this time.
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Nothing like Silver Star 2. After seeing lloopp's post, I was thinking Hypothermia before ounce remembered me of The Digger (that is better :P)
Anyways, i do believe you can use Vlads and save 4 kg.
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Nothing like Silver Star 2. After seeing lloopp's post, I was thinking Hypothermia before ounce remembered me of The Digger (that is better :P)
Anyways, i do believe you can use Vlads and save 4 kg.
I've done that, and changed up the frontal skirt to Titanium.
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Since I haven't done an update in a while, here's what I've got up-to-date on Drazah:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/12834screenshot_3 (2).png)
The insides:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/62273screenshot_2 (2).png)
Changes:
-Removed Back Skirt
-Added 2x NPC-T64's with 2x Slipperbottoms
-Changed to hinge wedge with 120cm Titanium panels
It's still got issues with getting under the opponents. Any advice on what to do there?
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Hinges don't like the format your using, they like to be as flat as possible.
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Use the Left/Right NPCs so you can use Vlads (same grip and more hitpoints for less weight). And you can't get under opponents because your wedge height is incorrect. The metal hinge should be flat against the ground for it to be effective. You might need to lower the chassis a bit so you can add a skirt hinge wedge as the feeder wedge.
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Use the Left/Right NPCs so you can use Vlads (same grip and more hitpoints for less weight). And you can't get under opponents because your wedge height is incorrect. The metal hinge should be flat against the ground for it to be effective. You might need to lower the chassis a bit so you can add a skirt hinge wedge as the feeder wedge.
Can't exactly flatten the chassis anymore, as it is as low as it can go. Also, thanks for the advice. I'll fix it in a few minutes.
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Yes you can I believe, when changing the chassis hight, move the slider up to the very highest it can go, then instead of sliding it, move your mouse as low as you can on the slider and click, it will move the chassis lower than what you normally can, If you dont believe me click on the slider afterward and you will notice it moves the chassis height higher, to make it lower again just repeat the process.
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Wedge isn't going to work well like that.
Also get Vlad wheels, and try to put a secondary upwards wedge by axle loading the E-Tek, then adding a skrt hinge on top of it facing forward (or the other way)
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Yes you can I believe, when changing the chassis hight, move the slider up to the very highest it can go, then instead of sliding it, move your mouse as low as you can on the slider and click, it will move the chassis lower than what you normally can, If you dont believe me click on the slider afterward and you will notice it moves the chassis height higher, to make it lower again just repeat the process.
*takes a look at it*
*does it*
Holy Cow, you're right! Time to put that back on the sketchboard. I'll do it tomorrow, though, since my time just got consumed with Fallout 3 and Mothership Zeta.
Also, Naryar, I'll be sure to do that once I re-do it tomorrow... only question is, what do you mean by axle-loading the E-Tek? I'm not too familiar with the various glitches in game.
(p.s. Naryar, have you had a chance to read your PM's, especially ones concerning the Wiki?)
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Sage has an axle load tutorial, i think.
I have one on my youtube account (Nagzash) as well.
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Alright, time for the update on Drazah:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/13847drazah.png)
The insides (with weapon removed for better view):
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/67513drazahinside.png)
Changes:
-Shrunk height of chassis to the lowest point it can go (thanks, d-lark)
-Upgraded weapon motor to Quad Mag Gearbox
-Changed wheels to Hypnos (any larger, and the realistic rule would be broken; the bar barely skirts over it)
-Changed motors to NPC Left/Right
-Changed up wedge configuration to have 2 80cm Aluminum extenders on a skirt hinge and a 120cm Aluminum extender on a metal hinge (providing that feeder quality the last make didn't have)
I'll be testing this out later today.
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Clone? It looks okay though. You might wanna add an extender or skirt on top of the bar so it can self right easier.
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Clone? It looks okay though. You might wanna add an extender or skirt on top of the bar so it can self right easier.
It can self right pretty easily. The Quad Mag has plenty of power just to throw Drazah back on its wheels if it does get flipped.
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How is this a clone ?
Anyways, you did it right ! You have 4 kg to work with though. Maybe upgrading the upper Alu sheets to Titanium.
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How is this a clone ?
Anyways, you did it right ! You have 4 kg to work with though. Maybe upgrading the upper Alu sheets to Titanium.
If those 4 kg's didn't put me into Heavyweight land...
Is there any way for me to change it up so that 399.X kg still equals middleweight?
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Try making the chassis a tiny bit smaller to eliminate the 0.2 kg.
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Try making the chassis a tiny bit smaller to eliminate the 0.2 kg.
Did so, lightened it up about 4 kg with Titanium upper panels (it's to 396.X kg now).
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(http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq4/kike44_2008/you-make-bunny-cry.jpg)
... because you keep using BMPs.
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(http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq4/kike44_2008/you-make-bunny-cry.jpg)
... because you keep using BMPs.
Uhh... Jack? I use .PNGs...
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they take the same amount of time if u dont crop them
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No he is just renaming his pictues into png, it doesnt work like that!
His pictures are .png.bmp
If you open up the picture in a new window you will notice that it says on the adress bar that its .png but on the window name bar it says BMP picture.
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No he is just renaming his pictues into png, it doesnt work like that!
His pictures are .png.bmp
If you open up the picture in a new window you will notice that it says on the adress bar that its .png but on the window name bar it says BMP picture.
*palmface*
Thanks for telling me that.
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*palmface*
Thanks for telling me that.
Now you know, and knowing is half the battle.
:D
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*palmface*
Thanks for telling me that.
Now you know, and knowing is half the battle.
:D
G.I. DRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRP!
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Nope it's Sun Tzu.
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G.I. TZUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
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G.I. JOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
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*facepalm*
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:D
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:D
Hooray for lunacy!
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Sorry I haven't been on as of late. For your troubles, here's a new robot that's bound to be a pet project of mine. Gentleman, Kurt Rambis:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/37128Kurt Rambis.jpg)
The innards:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/7887Kurt Rambis Inside.jpg)
The stats:
-Plastic 3 Armor
-NPC T-64 motors with 2 Vlads
-6 Iron Spikes on 2 Skirt Hinges
-2 Ant Batteries
-2 Baseplate Anchors (having some issues with getting multi-extenders to do their job)
-2 80cm Aluminum Extenders
I admit, there's a boatload of open room and not much in the way of weaponry, but this is a 1st draft. So, any advice on making the unsung hero of the '80s LA Lakers into a meaner, leaner fighting machine?
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Why are you building vertically here ? That's pointless efficiency-wise and weight-wise.
Excellent choice of weapon extender work, however.
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Why are you building vertically here ? That's pointless efficiency-wise and weight-wise.
Excellent choice of weapon extender work, however.
Trying for a "off the beaten path" design, to be perfectly honest.
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Now, for an update on Kurt Rambis:
New outer:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/6321kurtrambis.jpg)
New inner:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/97971kurtrambisinside.jpg)
Upgrades:
-Reduced chassis size exponentially by getting rid of odd angle chassis
-Changed Aluminum extenders connecting to wheels for 20x80 DSL Bar
-Downgraded drive to TWM Drive Edition (having problems with upgrading to NPC's since they don't want to connect properly to the bar)
-Upgraded armor to Tite 10 (OOOOOOOOOOOOOVERKILLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL!)
Obviously, I need to upgrade my drive and possibly downgrade the armor. Any suggestions on how to do both?
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You could create a "U" shape Out of extenders and connect the motors on the tips of the "U" shape.
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Man, it has been a while since I last posted in here. Now, to show you my modifications to 2 different versions of my BBEANS6 entry, Kurt Rambis.
First up is KR Armored:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/62700KRArmored.jpg)
Changes from last time:
Downgraded Armor to Tite 3
Changed back work to a 40cm Aluminum extender and 20cm Aluminum extender (20cm was needed for next item)
Added 20x80cm DSL Bar to protect wheels from back attack
Added 2 Iron Spikes to sides to serve as armor/damage (made mention of this on BBEANS6 Signup page)
Second up is Kurt Rambis 2:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/54203KurtRambis2.jpg)
Changes from last time:
Downgraded Armor to Plastic 3
Changed back work to 2x 60cm Tite extenders
Upgraded drive to NPC Normal
Also added 2x Iron Spikes to side for armor/damage
Of course, both need more work. For instance, KR Armored needs armor on the top and bottom of the robot (to combat robots like Bisector) and I probably need to change up the drive train of KR2 so that it isn't nearly as exposed. Any ideas on how to make this work?
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Use smaller extenders for KR2, 40 cm is enough.
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Use smaller extenders for KR2, 40 cm is enough.
I will likely do that, but what should I do with the extra 8 kg of weight? Add a baseplate to protect myself?
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Well, I changed up Kurt Rambis 2 a fair bit; here's the new version of it:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/87476KR2.jpg)
Changes:
-Changed connection to wheels to 20cm Aluminum extenders
-Added 2 Medium Skis for side protection/wheel protection (why the Extra Small connector is there)
-Removed the two side spikes
Overall, an upgrade (I think). The only thing the robot loathes now are flippers and pop-ups, mainly because I still have jack in armor for the top and bottom.
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I cannot remember off the top of my head, but if those skis weigh a good amount, use the weight for something else. Take them off, and use something like shell plates or whatever, and put the weight into some bottom/top armor.
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Ski's are better then shell panels.
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Skis are awesome!!!
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Took me long enough to think of a new robot, and boy is it a doozy. Introducing WTF Mate!?.
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/91328WTFMate.jpg)
Yeah, I decided to go off the deep end and build this. Everything's visible, and AFAIK, is NOT combat ready what-so-ever.
The stats:
Drive: 2 Drive E-Tek's (it deserves one of these: :rage )
Wheels: 2 Vlads
Armor: Plastic 1
Front End: 80cm Polycarb extender on Metal Hinge, 2x80cm Polycarb extender on Skirt Hinge
Essentially, this is supposed to get under the other robot and knock it out of the arena, but... that sure isn't working. Any tips or pointers or comments about how stupid I am for going overboard on the drive?
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See my BOTM bot Ludicrous Speed or the HW version in NAR AI Wars, R17. That's how you throw bots OOTA with... well... ludicrous speed.
I tried making a LW version but it failed because of AGOD. Maybe you'll have better luck. I used NPC fasts with Techno wheels, which seemed to work well.
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FIRST ROUND FINALE!
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Wouldn't it be FIRST ROUND FINALE!3?
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Wouldn't it be FIRST ROUND FINALE!3?
Except for without that pesky chassis? Yes, yes it would. I may just enter this into CC IV and get an SFTW award on the way out.
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You should totally do that. :D
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What exactly is its weapon?
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There is no weapon, it uses its own speed to slam bots OOTA.
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After several months away from building, I come back with a generic SnS. In fact, it's so generic that its name is:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/77514CaptainGeneric.jpg)
The insides:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/84315CGInsides.jpg)
The stats:
Weapons: 2x 30 kg Sledges on 2x 20x80 DSL Bars
Motors: 2x NPC Fasts
Wheels: 2x Hypnos
Armor: Steel 3
Everything else is self-explanatory at this point. Now, I fully realize that this is a boring design. This is more or less a semi-introduction to the new builders to how... meh I am. I hope to actually have a better made robot soon... if my Capstone doesn't get in my road first.
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After several months away from building, I come back with a generic SnS. In fact, it's so generic that its name is:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/77514CaptainGeneric.jpg)
The insides:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/84315CGInsides.jpg)
The stats:
Weapons: 2x 30 kg Sledges on 2x 20x80 DSL Bars
Motors: 2x NPC Fasts
Wheels: 2x Hypnos
Armor: Steel 3
Everything else is self-explanatory at this point. Now, I fully realize that this is a boring design. This is more or less a semi-introduction to the new builders to how... meh I am. I hope to actually have a better made robot soon... if my Capstone doesn't get in my road first.
Steel is bad for Armour. Use Titanium if you can or Plastic.
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I understand that; but I can't quite use Titanium 5 or Plastic 10 because they are both too heavy to keep the robot as a lightweight. I'm thinking about maybe lessening the armor and adding some bottom protection. Would this be a good idea?
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I understand that; but I can't quite use Titanium 5 or Plastic 10 because they are both too heavy to keep the robot as a lightweight. I'm thinking about maybe lessening the armor and adding some bottom protection. Would this be a good idea?
Yea. Try and use Plastic 5 or 3 for Armour and use Halfsheets for bottom Armour
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Drop the armor down and make the chasis a parallelogram shape so you can spread the drives apart more. Contrary to real life in RA2 the further apart the wheels are the faster the bot spins.
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I understand that; but I can't quite use Titanium 5 or Plastic 10 because they are both too heavy to keep the robot as a lightweight. I'm thinking about maybe lessening the armor and adding some bottom protection. Would this be a good idea?
Yea. Try and use Plastic 5 or 3 for Armour and use Halfsheets for bottom Armour
doesn't really need half sheets at that weight, but it can help.
also if you layer the ants on top of each other you can nearly half that chassis, but it's not necessary.
Try plastic 3 and add on some protection, or just use pl 5.
Depends if you're more offensive or defensive :approve:
Also are those the left NPC's? It's a bit hard for me to see with my eyesight :P
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If you do layer the ants on top of each other, your chassis can be much more compact. Take a look at my BW Puncture II to see what you can get away with. Also, if you attach a 40cm CF extender to the ME, then use a 20x40 DSL Bar if you want to, you could easily upgrade the armour to something more efficient. Although NPC Fasts (I think they're Rights) + Hypnos are actually painfully slow to turn when you have a chassis that small, I think havok affects it quite badly. Normal NPC Rights should be sufficient, and you could add some more weaponry with the extra weight.
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If you do layer the ants on top of each other, your chassis can be much more compact. Take a look at my BW Puncture II to see what you can get away with. Also, if you attach a 40cm CF extender to the ME, then use a 20x40 DSL Bar if you want to, you could easily upgrade the armour to something more efficient. Although NPC Fasts (I think they're Rights) + Hypnos are actually painfully slow to turn when you have a chassis that small, I think havok affects it quite badly. Normal NPC Rights should be sufficient, and you could add some more weaponry with the extra weight.
I recently built a LW SnS (jus' sayin)
If you can, use the lefts because they have an AP farther out from the chassis which is a bit better space-wise and turning.
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Well, I took your advice, and here's the current Captain Generic:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/31092CaptainGeneric2.jpg)
Changes:
*Went to 40cm CF Extender and 20x40 DSL Bar
*Changed to NPC Rights
Now, I want to add on a half-sheet to form an X with the wheels, but it's telling me that I can't for whatever reason (I think it's because the Control Unit is intersecting the bottom, but I'm not terribly certain). Any ideas on how to do that?
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The chassis needs to be higher to attach the halfsheet.
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For the last bot, I just said screw it. Not worth my time.
As for the upcoming Battlebots tourney, I've put together 2 robots, both of which are probably between lousy and really lousy.
Here they are:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/56302ShinSlasher.jpg)
Shin Slasher- a response to Hard Bot's "sawbot", featuring Tite 3 armor, 3 Chewblades on a Perm 80 L, and Titanium front skirt (120 cm). Drivetrain is NPC Fasts with N-12 wheels.
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/93950Flood.jpg)
Flood- an upgraded version of an older robot, Drazah. Plastic 1 armor (ugh), 2 55 kg hammers on a 20x160 DSL Bar powered by a Dual Mag. Drivetrain is NPC's with Hypnos.
So... criticisms? Barkings of unoriginality? Direct insults to my intelligence?
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Attempting to stir up more interest for myself in Battlebots. Here's my next idea, Cantaloop:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/34835Cantaloop.jpg)
Stats: Large JX Burst powers the flipper with 2 Spike strips to trap and flip the opponent; 9 ants; NPC T-64 Fasts with Tazbot wheels; Plastic 5 armor.
Comments? Questions? Anyone?
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- The flipper looks fragile
- DOSE WHEELS
I like it.
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Flood looks good.
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Alright. It's been a while and I got motivated by RJPK's attempt at making a VS.
So... here's mine.
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/78690TerminatorX1.jpg)
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/49163TX1Insides.jpg)
The stats:
Plastic 3 Armor
2 55kg hammers on a 20x80 DSL Bar, powered by a Perm 132 L
2 TWM3R Motors, Vlad Wheels
3 Ant Batteries
2 120cm Angled Aluminum Skirts
and a 60 cm CF Extender to stop the robot from tipping over when it connects
So...yeah.
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Looks nice but if your going for a Vs like that, you need a smaller chassis and better wedges. Happy to see you building again.
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Originally, it did have a Metal Hinge wedge, but the wedge portion sunk into the floor, rendering it pretty much useless.
This was also when the robot was using a Perm 80 L, which made it a bit too slow weapon-wise.
You are right though about the chassis. Originally, it had NPC's in there which called for the larger chassis, but now with the TWM3R's, it could stand a re-do of the chassis.
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Looks decent. Haven't built anything in DSL in awhile now so I got no advice.
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Well, had to bite the bullet on some things, while improving in other areas. Here's the current version:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/60604TX1.jpg)
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/73645TX1Insides.jpg)
The changes:
-Skirts changed to 80cm Angled Tite panels
-Added 120cm Aluminum skirt on Metal Hinge Wedge
-Downgraded motor to Perm 80 L
-Downgraded hammers to 2 50 kg Hammers
-Upgraded armor to Plastic 5
-Added a second Carbon Fiber Extender to the back for added stability
-Changed wheels to Tornado wheels
Now, the robot no longer bucks and can move around without sacrificing wedginess.
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I would go npcs and some lighter wheels like shinies or something.
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I would go npcs and some lighter wheels like shinies or something.
Should I take the armor back to Plastic 3 in the process, then?
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You could still shrink the chassis unless that would screw up stability.
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Considering how I have it now, shrinking the body may wind up affecting stability.
Also, through some clever crafting, the current setup motor-wise are NPC's with Rubber wheels.
Weight is now @ 396.4 kilograms.
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Why 2 stabelisers at the back? Isn't that just wasting weight?
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Why 2 stabelisers at the back? Isn't that just wasting weight?
It most likely is wasting weight, since 1 stabilizer is probably everything I need. However, I will keep one on there so that the robot doesn't unexpectedly tip over when I hit anything.
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1 is good. 2 is wasting weight.
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Alright. Went back down to 1 60cm CF Extender, and improved the wheels to Vlads.
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Try and change the cf extender to a skirt.
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Try and change the cf extender to a skirt.
Don't need to take up unnecessary weight back there.
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I think a 40cm Polycarbonate skirt would be lighter than it, and provide slightly better and stronger stability.
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I think a 40cm Polycarbonate skirt would be lighter than it, and provide slightly better and stronger stability.
Alright, with Vlads it became more unstable than with a CF Extender. Downgrading the wheels back to Rubber allowed the robot to become much more stabilized.
Weight is now @ 391.7, so I've got a few kilos to play with. Any suggestions as to what to do with it?
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You could add another ant battery for a more consistent power supply over the three minutes, rather than running low in the latter stages.
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That might be well and good, but shouldn't 3 ant's be able to power 3 motors for 3 minutes?
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For 3 spin motors, 3 ants is enough, but adding a 4th can't hurt. Just some extra insurance that it will keep up full power... Or something like that.
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Wait... have I not created anything in the past 2 months? Wow. Didn't expect working at Walmart to drain me that much.
Anyway, back to the grind and with it, a new robot. Meet one of my older robots new incarnations, Super Bullseye 3:
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/5141SB3.jpg)
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/24327SB3Inside.jpg)
The specs:
-NPC T-64's with Vlad Wheels
-10 Iron Spikes powered by 2 Piglets
-4 Ants
-120cm Tite wedge on Hinge
-Dual half sheets on bottom to protect against pop-ups
-Full sheet on top for more protection
-Plastic 3 Armor
Strengths:
-Very heavily armored... in most places
-Trappy, especially if robot is stuck on main wedge
Weaknesses:
-Top sheet can be taken off after a while due to damage
-Slightly unprotected portions of the bottom which could lead to pop-ups getting in their blows
-Unprotected wheels, ripe for the taking
Weight is 396.7 kg, in case you're wondering.
So... any questions? Comments? Rantings about how my bots suck?
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Swap the irons for beater bars and LDS teeth and try not to stack the ants, use the other AP if you have to.
Turning the sheet so it covers the wheels might help aswell.
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Hmmm, a FS with a lot of protection is good, but...
I question its ability to actually trap and grind anything, to which most good FSers do. It doesn't look like to have the speed to do that naturally, so perhaps a trapping system would be more beneficial than top amour
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Swap the irons for beater bars and LDS teeth and try not to stack the ants, use the other AP if you have to.
Turning the sheet so it covers the wheels might help aswell.
1) I'm not stacking batteries. They're just on top of each other, is all.
2) Turning that sheet turns the robot into an unrealistic robot (I'm talking DSL, not IRL, though both fit here).
As for DK, that is another of the weaknesses, though in Two to Tango (where this robot is going) it will likely face pop-ups along the way.
And for the weapon change, I'll need to look into it and see if it is better for me.
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Ah okay then.
What do you mean by unrealistic? I don't see how it would be.
And lds+beaters are better than irons almost all of the time from my experience
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From a realisticism standpoint? A hole could be cut in the sheet for the wheels. Just axle load them and maybe use tornadoes if you have the weight, if vlads are too small.
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From a realisticism standpoint? A hole could be cut in the sheet for the wheels. Just axle load them and maybe use tornadoes if you have the weight, if vlads are too small.
If I can find a way to shave ~1.5 kg (which may happen if the LDS/beaters are lighter, though I don't think it is), I will likely upgrade to Tornado wheels.
Otherwise, I'll get to it right now.
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A good way to save weight in an FS is the weapons in the middle of the disk. A lot of times, they will not touch the other robot, because it would have to be perfectly flat against the spinners and that really doesn't happen. You could throw on some razors in the middle to save some weight and to be a last resort weapon or just get rid of middle weapons altogether to save a bunch.
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It looks pretty good, and I would turn the sheet on top 90 degrees. As for weaponry, I would swap the 5 Irons for four Small Beater Bars with Light DS Teeth, and maybe a Lightning Spike in the middle, or a razor, depending on which works best. That would save you the weight required for Tornado wheels. I'd also try to get the halfsheets on the bottom facing sideways as well, so you don't leave any exposed areas that popups can attack.
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Alright, here's what I've done with it:
-Everything NFX mentioned
Weight's down to 394.4, and it has officially become a BBEANS 4 killing machine. I only couldn't outright destroy Iron Spaghetti since it took one of my wheels. Even with one wheel, I was still beating on it when time ran out (note: it was a shell by the end; no weapons, no flails).
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Time for some realism... REAL realism.
Welcome, Super Sexy Push Bot.
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/17769SSPB.jpg)
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/57240SSPBI.jpg)
Meant for pretty much any upcoming DSL IRL tourney, it features a dual wedge to ram bots into walls and who knows what else!
The specifics:
-Aluminum 5 armor (could be upgraded if I lessen the battery count)
-4 Ant Batteries
-2 NPC Fast's with Tornado Wheels
-6 Large Beater Bars, 3 on each side, to inflict damage
-2 90 degree Axles to allow for wedge based combat both ways if flipped
So...comments? Happy that I created a non-cheaty IRL bot?
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scrap the ba's and get me's
attach the axles onto the chassis
also try to get the ti plates directly onto the axles via axle loading
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Wait... WHAT IS THIS!? A 4.5 year gap between my last post here? Well, time to show you what I've created for DSL 2.2 (and, in turn, Sword of Glory/Robot Wars)!
(https://gametechmods.com/uploads/images/88244Flood XL-H.jpg)
This is Flood XL-H! (there is also a Flood XL-C variant for Robot Wars)
Armor: Steel 3
Movement: 2x NPC w/ Hypno wheels
Weapon: 6 Mag, with 37.5x250 DSL Bar and 2x70 kg DSL Hammers
Wedge: 10x 40x70 Titanium Triangles with 5 Steel Wedge Pieces to make the wedge look more complete
Side Protection: 2x 40x120 Steel Panels
In short, it's still decently powerful but MUCH more IRL than any of my Flood variants before this.
So... thoughts?
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dont really like the wheelguards and the chassis is big enough to give it some sexy water skin instead of just painting it blue.
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dont really like the wheelguards and the chassis is big enough to give it some sexy water skin instead of just painting it blue.
I admit, the wheel guards aren't exactly how I like them (Flood XL-C does have different wheel guards that explicitly hit just the wheels and nothing else), but I also wanted some side protection in case.
As for the skin... I know how to skin to some degree, but I really don't want to have to go everything that I've gone through in order to make it look better (read: for some reason, my copy of DSL 2.2 doesn't allow for me to import or export paint designs, so I had to send the paint job over to 2.1, export the original, create the skin, send it back to 2.1 to import, and then put everything back together in 2.2 that wasn't originally in that).